HAM DUAL BAND ANTENNA
ON THE CB SIDE OF GL1800 Gold Wing!
Using a Quansheng TG=UV
Click for Chet's Wing Pages
Two inch PL259/SO-239 barrel
GL1800 Antenna base
short PL259 cable connector
Suitable antenna with PL259 base
two ¼" fender washers
Clippings from the cable sheath
one hard fibre plumbing washer
Metric Allen (hex key) wrenches
Large soldering iron
NOTE: if you have a CB, you can obtain a dual purpose AM/FM/CB
Click any picture for a larger printable version.
||First order of business:
the OEM antenna base. To remove the chrome cover, spread the "ears" a
little and it will pop off. There are two allens which hold the tube in the
base. Access them in the top bolt hole and in a recess about ½" below that
as shown in the pic. Once removed, you will
see the hard metal tube into which you must fit your SO-239 barrel. When
I made mine, I had a friend with a lathe who could turn the barrel down
for me, but it isn't critical that you get it perfectly round and one can
do the job with a belt sander or grinder. On one end, take it down
enough so that it fits into the tube far enough that the allens of the base can
contact it. That's just about taking off only the threads on one end as you
can see in the pic to the right.
||Cut the cup off the PL259 connector:
First, cut some pieces of cable sheath so that our SO-239 will grab tightly to the male PL259 staff. Insert four as shown in the pic into each end of the barrel making the females grip tightly (we all like that, right?).
The cup won't
fit in the tube so we eliminate it. Instead we solder the PL259 cable
connector to the bottom of our SO-239 barrel.
|Insert the assembly firmly into the base:
After you've got the cable assembled (remember, you have to thread the cable through the base before you attach it to the connector) use a vice or other means of press and push the barrel into the base then tighten the allen set screws. Before you can assemble the chrome cover you must carefully enlarge the hole in the top so it will fit over the SO-239. I just sanded/ground off the top until it fit as shown in the pic at the right. Do a little at a time until you have it right. When you put the antenna on, the base will cover the sanded area.
|Assemble your base:
Your result should look like what you see to the right. Now it's time to drill the holes. If you had a CB antenna, you're good to go, just bolt it on.
Inside your trunk on the left, there will be two crosses embossed and located where you need to drill the holes for the mounting screws. Drill with a very small pilot bit from the inside to the outside at the crosses making marker holes. From the outside using a step drill at your markers make the mounting holes just large enough to accept the mounting bolts. You can judge with the rubber gasket where they go before and how large they need to be. Though the pic at the left has a top hole that looks too big, that's just an artifact of the photo and it really isn't.
In the center between the two holes (mark it with the rubber), drill a larger hole to accept your wire which will be big enough for the rubber to fit. Route your cable the same way the right radio antenna cable is routed. For my radio, I use a BNC on the end that connects to the radio. When bolting the antenna base, use the fender washers or you can do as I did and make a fixture to match the right from sheet metal as shown.
The last step is to put your hard fiber washer inside of the antenna base where the PL259 pin is. This helps get a tight fit once you screw it onto the OEM base.
||The final product:
SWR readings without modification:
most used freq 147.045 and 147.000 SWR is 1.2
Simplex 146.5200 146.5500 swr is 1.5
They would be lower but we had to use extra adapters on each end of the meter, With my 5 watt HT I can hit repeaters up to 40 miles away using an SBB-5 dual UHF band Diamond COMET antenna.
NOTE: if your HAM radio is grounded to the chassis, then you might need to ground your antenna with a ground wire inside the trunk as shown. My HT radio is not grounded to the chassis so I did not put a ground wire on my antenna. YMMV - check your SWR each way, ground or no ground, to see what's best. If you were converting an OEM CB antenna, you may need to break the band that connects the brace where the antenna mounts to the outside with the washer that the grounding bolt in the trunk grounds to the frame. You either WANT it grounded or you DO NOT want it grounded. Measure SWR each way.
||What radio do I run?
I run a $70 Quansheng TG-UV2 and/or a $25 Baofeng UV-5R both purchased a few years ago. I have two of each. It was once hung on a home made panel mounted to my right bar with extended screws and spacers as shown at right. I started out using just the Rubber Duck seen at left which worked well enough for bike to bike communications mounted vertically on the bars. I graduated to the 5db gain antenna for more range and less picket fencing when tailing hundreds of bikes in the annual Fallen Officers Memorial ride which required communing with the lead bikes and also the HQ repeater at YSU in Youngstown Ohio.
The wiring necessary for keying and mic/headset is shown at right. Kennedy makes a unit that will interface with the GL1800 intercom, just ask for the Kenwood HT headset interface. I built my own for my special needs boom mic that does not require interface with the GL intercom. I do use the Kennedy single set for interface with the intercom for long rides on the super slab requiring a full face helmet. Shown at left is where I plug in my headset. Both 2.5mm mono and 3.5mm stereo panel mount jacks are mounted in the gas door "shroud" and it's no problem to close the gas door once it's plugged in.
I have since mounted the radio in the right pocket for security reasons (I had one stolen). I find it more convenient to run the mic/speaker wires, antenna and a 12v power supply rather than the cumbersome up the handlebar.
INJOY! And shout out for KD8OVH from time to time. I can be found in NE Ohio and North or South Carolina.
|The information on these pages is accurate to the best of the author's knowledge. The author can assume no responsibility for the use or misuse of this information by the reader. The reader is expected to secure any other information needed from Service Manuals or other sources. It is up to the reader to determine his/her ability to make any modifications noted. If the reader does not feel qualified he/she should enlist professional help.|