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HI LITES that flash and signal
using the INTEGRATOR
on the GL1800 Gold Wing
This may also work on the Valkyrie Interstate
By Chet Walters
Click for Rattlebars Mfg.
Click for Chet's Wing Pages

Using the Integrator , you can make your trunk lights into signals and flashing brake lights
I like the rear lights on the GL1800 a lot, but I had one concern. The signals are too low, I think they should be on the trunk. So I put them there with the INTEGRATOR. This unit is designed for sport bikes to eliminate the stalky turn signals and change the dual bulb lights into both brake lights and turn signals. But, I adapted it to the GL1800 to make the trunk lights into supplemental higher turn signals and this unit will optionally also flash the brake lights as well. You can get these at almost any bike shop that caters to sport bike guys. I had this on my ZX-6R and retrieved it before selling. Works great on the Wing! I've seen the other units that flash the lights and they are too expensive. Plus, the are very confusing with the criss/cross flashing and one never knows what the heck the bike is doing, stopping? Turning? or just a light show. I don't like them at all, but this one is excellent and cheap!

small 4" zip ties
electrical tape
heat shrink
5m, 6m Allen wrench
#2 phillips
power screwdriver
wire cutter
needle nose pliers
solder gun
Click any picture to see enlargement
Click resuting picture to see next
Use backspace key for previous
For steps not described fully - see your service manual.
STEP ONE: Remove rear fender and lower trunk cover
Click here for scrollable printable pic.
Would be nice to get to the wires without taking all this stuff off, but you must get to the single harness leading up into the trunk on each side so that you don't end up cutting the wrong wires. I always take a pic of things the way they are before I start out so I can put it all back the right way when done.
STEP TWO: Connect the Intergrator splice-in wires
Click here for scrollable printable pic.
One can use the quick splice in tuck and roll method of stripping an inch of the light wire and inserting it into the female connector in the male plugs. Fill the female plug with lube gel to prevent corrosion (it's gonna be dirty under here) and with the wire stuck in there, put the plug back together. Sometimes you need a small flat blade screwdriver or awl to stretch out the female to accept the extra wire. Good test is to tug the wire once done, if it stays in, it's good. Make sure you only do one wire per plug like the drawing to keep from having a short. Another way of splicing in is shown below.
STEP THREE: Locate the Integrator cut bulb wires
Click here for scrollable printable pic.
Carefully cut along the tape wrap on each of the trunk light harnesses and expose the needed wires. You will be cutting the BROWN/WHITE and GREEN/RED wires on each side.  Here we show the left side.  You will be doing this same thing on the right side.

If you DO NOT want the flashing brake light feature, tie the short gray lead to the long green lead of the INTEGRATOR (or optionally put a switch on it). Some states don't allow flashing brake lights...

STEP FOUR: Connect Integrator wires to cut bulb wires
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Tie the matching wires on each side together and solder the appropriate INTEGRATOR wire to the proper wires (see drawing). Use heat shrink after. For the ends not used, bend back upon itself and put shrink on them.
Click here for scrollable printable pic.

STEP SEVEN: Put all the stuff back together and Go for a ride!

The movie shows in this sequence:






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It is my habit to watch my rear view mirrors when stopped waiting for traffic to clear making a turn especially left.  Last week, I was doing as usual and noticed a mini-van coming up behind way too fast. The opposing traffic negated my turning so I released the clutch and pinned it glancing back to see the mini-van smoking its tires to stop. After waving with only one finger, I just forgot the turn and went home another way.  But, I was determined to add some lighting back there. Because of my custom paint I can't put a spoiler & light and need one that would fit my "stealth" non-ostentatious theme.  I found a 4.5 inch very bright Knight Riderz LED run/brake combo at Custom Dynamics. I mounted it under the trunk on the flat area where the levers are which is both high and visible. The light bar is unobtrusive, does not in any way hamper using the levers and the required wires to tap into are conveniently in the boot behind the back fender panel.  Very easy installation, took me about 40 minutes start to finish. I also got a dark skinned Knight Riderz module and mounted it behind the backrest with some stainless steel  (see pic). All the necessary wires can be accessed in the c14 connector in the boot in the back. Here's what it looks like and what it does as it goes through the paces with my integrator setup.


pics and video coming soon Since I got my '06 I went a different way......
Click here for scrollable printable pic.
My '06 has inside trunk lights that do not light up with the brake or anything! Just a running light. EC sells a harness that will make them turn signals (EC jumper for signals in trunk). However, that item is a bit pricey and I can wire stuff so I just ran a wire from the right (BLUE) and left (ORANGE) signal wire on each side and made a pigtail that would electrify that side's unused bright filament in the inside 7443 lights. Now when I turn on my signals, that light on that side blinks with the sigal. I did entertain the notion of getting EC's EC superflash module to flash the trunk lights but I didn't want to spend that much. I did find the same thing on Amazon for less. But, that module requires that you use LED bulbs so while I was looking for the LED bulbs to go with the module I ran across these Super Bright LED 7443 brake flashing bulbs with a rapid brake flash built right in! No need for wiring changes, just swap out the bulbs for almost the same price as regular LED bulbs that you must buy for the module.

Minimum bulk - EZ to install - EZ to reverse

*Click here for a background audio reading of this section.
*Click here for an audio reading of this section.
Since this method will be used throughout and there will be more additions to this page as time goes on, the description of the method used to connect the wires is right here up front! I don't like Scotch locks for wire splice in. Even LeverLocks , which are very large (often too large for tight spaces), require you cut a wire or two. BOTH are bulky, often loosen over time and corrode. Soldering is best, but that is sometimes very difficult if not impossible. I often use the "tuck and roll" method (shown at right) which works good on smaller connectors with light gauge wires, but that's sometimes not practical with these tight mini connectors. Using, in the order of ease of use and durability: a safety pin leg (good for waterproof connectors), a leg from a diode/resistor, 1 inch length of 20-22 gauge bell wire (solid copper not strands) or a ceiling tile staple, one can make a "probe" that will slip into a connector from behind on the plug as shown. Grab a proper size gauge diode or safety pin and cut off a leg leaving enough to re-use the diode. Solder your lead onto one leg end leaving about 1/2" or more of a leg free. Put on some heat shrink and lube it good with bulb grease and insert tightly into the back of the plug so that it makes good contact with the connector of the needed wire. After "smoke" testing, zip tie or tape it to the existing wire and zip tie to the harness too for good strain relief. (if doing a waterproof connector, you can add a dollop of hot glue or bulb grease before tying off). This way, if you ever need to disconnect that which you have connected, simply cut the zip ties and "unplug" your piggy back EZ Splice. Works great and it's easy. One helpful thing here is to use a "Helping Hand" soldering stand available at Radio Shack to help make a neat solder of the wire to the leg/pin. I've been using this method for 20 years in inclement weather of all sorts including snow, salt and mud (on my quads) and have never lost a connection. To the purist. A connector is a device which slides one metal "blade" over another metal "blade" to make a connection. We are merely doing exactly the same thing. There are commercial versions of this here: *click me*

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The information on these pages is accurate to the best of the author's knowledge. The author can assume no responsibility for the use or misuse of this information by the reader. The reader is expected to secure any other information needed from Service Manuals or other sources. It is up to the reader to determine his/her ability to make any modifications noted. If the reader does not feel qualified he/she should enlist professional help.

On my 06

All feeds from the system are diode protected.