HI LITES that flash and signal
using the INTEGRATOR
on the GL1800 Gold Wing
This may also work on the Valkyrie Interstate
By Chet Walters
Click for Rattlebars Mfg.
Click for Chet's Wing Pages

Using the Integrator ($50), you can make your trunk lights into signals and flashing brake lights
I like the rear lights on the GL1800 a lot, but I had one concern. The signals are too low, I think they should be on the trunk. So I put them there with the INTEGRATOR. This unit is designed for sport bikes to eliminate the stalky turn signals and change the dual bulb lights into both brake lights and turn signals. But, I adapted it to the GL1800 to make the trunk lights into supplemental higher turn signals and this unit will optionally also flash the brake lights as well. You can get these at almost any bike shop that caters to sport bike guys. I had this on my ZX-6R and retrieved it before selling. Works great on the Wing! I've seen the other units that flash the lights and they are too expensive. Plus, the are very confusing with the criss/cross flashing and one never knows what the heck the bike is doing, stopping? Turning? or just a light show. I don't like them at all, but this one is excellent and cheap!

Click any picture to see enlargement Click resuting picture to see next Use backspace key for previous

For steps not described fully - see your service manual.

STEP ONE: Remove rear fender and lower trunk cover Click here for scrollable printable pic. Would be nice to get to the wires without taking all this stuff off, but you must get to the single harness leading up into the trunk on each side so that you don't end up cutting the wrong wires. I always take a pic of things the way they are before I start out so I can put it all back the right way when done.

STEP TWO: Connect the Intergrator splice-in wires Click here for scrollable printable pic. One can use the quick splice in tuck and roll method of stripping an inch of the light wire and inserting it into the female connector in the male plugs. Fill the female plug with lube gel to prevent corrosion (it's gonna be dirty under here) and with the wire stuck in there, put the plug back together. Sometimes you need a small flat blade screwdriver or awl to stretch out the female to accept the extra wire. Good test is to tug the wire once done, if it stays in, it's good. Make sure you only do one wire per plug like the drawing to keep from having a short. Another way of splicing in is shown below.

STEP THREE: Locate the Integrator cut bulb wires Click here for scrollable printable pic. Carefully cut along the tape wrap on each of the trunk light harnesses and expose the needed wires. You will be cutting the BROWN/WHITE and GREEN/RED wires on each side.  Here we show the left side.  You will be doing this same thing on the right side. If you DO NOT want the flashing brake light feature, tie the short gray lead to the long green lead of the INTEGRATOR (or optionally put a switch on it). Some states don't allow flashing brake lights...

STEP FOUR: Connect Integrator wires to cut bulb wires Click here for scrollable printable pic. Tie the matching wires on each side together and solder the appropriate INTEGRATOR wire to the proper wires (see drawing). Use heat shrink after. For the ends not used, bend back upon itself and put shrink on them.

STEP SEVEN: Put all the stuff back together and Go for a ride! \The movie shows in this sequence: BRAKE LIGHT WITH FLASH TURN SIGNAL ONLY BRAKE WITH SIGNAL ON (no flash) NO BRAKE OR SIGNAL VERY SLICK!   Click here for scrollable printable pic.

EZ SPLICE-IN PIGGY BACK METHOD Click here for scrollable printable pic. I don't like Scotch locks for wire splice in. They are bulky, often loosen over time and corrode. Soldering is best, but that is sometimes very difficult if not impossible. I often use the "tuck and roll" method which works good on single bullet connectors, but that's sometimes not practical with these tight mini connectors. Using an ordinary T50 staples from a staple gun, one can make a "probe" that will slip into a connector from behind on the plug as shown. Bend one staple leg straight and cut off the other leg. Solder your lead onto one end leaving about 1/2" of staple free. Put on some heat shrink and lube it good with bulb grease or Lube Gel and insert tightly into the back of the plug so that it makes good contact with the connector of the needed wire. Zip tie or tape it to the existing wire and zip tie to the harness too for good strain relief. This way, if you ever need to disconnect that which you have connected, simply cut the zip ties and "unplug" your piggy back EZ Splice. Works great and it's easy. One helpful thing here is to use a "Helping Hand" soldering stand available at Radio Shack to help make a neat solder of the wire to the staple.

Questions? Contact Chet at Chetspages@rattlebars.com