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This adds what I consider a vital safety feature
By Chet Walters
Based on an idea by Fred H.
Click for
Rattlebars Mfg.
Click for Chet's Wing Pages
Click any picture to enlarge - close window
when done viewing.
| MATERIALS NEEDED Four 4" different colored segments 22 gauge wire 1 or 2 diodes Radio Shack (276-1653) 1 or 2 reed relay Radio Shack (275-233) or equivalent auto relay electrical tape Solder 4 Zip Ties Shrink Wrap Bulb Grease |
TOOLS #2 Phillips strippers soldering iron |
I first saw this mod on the
GL1800 Riders Tech board and thought it would be a nice addition to
the GL1800. I personally consider it a vital safety feature.
The grunt work was done by Fred H.
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DELAY YOUR CANCEL SIGNAL: Being on a bike, I like to turn on my signals early so cagers have plenty of time to react. This poses a bit of a problem on the GL1800 because it has has auto-cancel. Often, especially when I'm turning into my driveway, the blinker is no longer blinking by the time I'm sitting and waiting on opposing traffic to allow me to make that left turn. The solution was to hit the blinker switch twice - this has two flaws: #1 I have to remember to do it (not so easy these days) and #2, if I'm working the brake and the clutch, it's a bit of a stretch to reach the blinker switch, too. Back in '06 - Fred H. (Angel Ride Videos) posted a neat solution on the GL1800 Riders Tech board. He determined that the cancel unit gets a ground pulse which starts the countdown counter. If one can pulse the cancel unit using a normal activity while riding, the counter will get reset to zero as if one had pumped the switch again. He devised a method to pulse the cancel unit with the brake light meaning that when your brake is on (a normal part of preparing for a turn) your signal countdown counter would never advance hence no timed signal cancel. The circuit shown is a modification of Fred's circuit with the change being the wire with which we cause the relay to pulse ground. Fred used GREEN/RED which can only be accessed from the relay under the seat making for a cumbersome run of a long wire under the shelter. I chose to use the GREEN/YELLOW from the handlebar brake lever switch (it gets "hot" from the brake pedal as well) to trigger the relay because it's located in the same harness assembly as the other wires involved. One can accomplish the whole feat in a single compact package under the right front pocket (at least in models prior to '06). The circuit is shown at left drawn by Fred and modified by yours truly. Click for a bigger version. This first method works on bikes if one does not use a relay that has any delay in switching off. I have no problems using a single reed relay and others have reported that there is no problem using a normal auto relay such as the one discussed on my Basic Relay Page.
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 FIGURE ONE  FIGURE TWO  FIGURE THREE  FIGURE FOUR |
THE METHOD: For this application, we will use the "probe" method for splicing into the system wires we will use. The reason? These wires go to three different connectors and we may need to separate them at a later date. One can solder a joint, but if you do, it would be wise to add four bullet connectors to your installation for easy disconnect later. For our probes, we will use the EZ-Splice in this picture >CLICK<, but we will use the actual diodes for two of our "probes" and will use the clipped off portion of the diode wire soldered to the necessary wire for the other two. The probe section needs to be about 5/8" long as illustrated. Prepare your circuit package as shown in FIGURE TWO taking care to orient the diodes properly and using the proper terminals on the reed relay. Cover the relay part with large heat shrink and apply heat. Pinch the "open" end with needle nose pliers to seal while still hot. Zip tie where the wires exit. All of the necessary system wires and connectors are accessible under the right pocket above the radiator (in models prior to '06) so you will need to remove the pocket (see shop manual). One needs merely to unscrew the tabbed screws shown in FIGURE FOUR and pull the entire wiring assembly into the opening of the pocket as shown in FIGURE THREE. Apply a generous
amount of bulb grease to your probes and insert them into the proper
connectors as illustrated in
FIGURE THREE.
Zip tie them securely to the wire into which they are inserted. To
test, you can run your bike on the center stand in gear to see if it all
works. Take the PROPER SAFETY PRECAUTIONS WHEN DOING THIS! But,
since we only remove the pocket and not the shelter, we can test ride it
easily (recommended).
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If you are having a problem with your signals not canceling after a turn.... (this should only be a problem if you pulled the brake on before the signals or left the brake on after the turn) you can use this modified drawing using two relays which will only restart the countdown if both the brake and the signals are on. |
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This one is really
cool
or
hot depending
on the temperature outside
By Chet Walters
Based on an idea by dusty74
Click for
Rattlebars Mfg.
Click for Chet's Wing Pages
Click any picture to enlarge - close window
when done viewing.
| MATERIALS 8" of 22 gauge wire Quick connect electrical tape Solder Bulb Grease |
TOOLS 5 mm allen strippers soldering iron |
I first saw this mod on the GL1800 Riders Tech board and thought it would be a nice addition to the GL1800. It was posted by dusty74. This mod is recommended unless you have something else that works with your signal cancel button (like a garage door opener). But, in all honesty, it should work just fine with the garage door hickey too as long as you're not under the door!. Anyway, all we do is use the signal cancel to "push" the DISP meter panel button. It's lots easier to just thumb press the signal cancel because you don't have to take your hand off the bars. Besides, my GPS is in the way, too. If you press once, the display will show the ambient temperature. If, while the temperature is displayed you press it again, you will be greeted with what your rear shock setting is (0-25). The usefulness of the temp display is just candy, but the display of the shock setting with a left thumb press is really cool too! |
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TEMPERATURE AND SHOCK SETTING DISPLAY MADE EASY: This is really simple. Take off your meter panel. In the harness coming down under your left handlebar from the switches, bust out the GREEN/WHITE wire. Solder a lead to the GREEN/WHITE about eight inches long. Tape up really well leaving the lead coming out as shown. Put a female quick connect on the end of it. Next, remove the meter button plug from the ignition tower and locate the BLUE/YELLOW wire there. Solder a lead onto that BLUE/YELLOW wire about 4" long, or instead of solder you can use the EZ-Splice method described in this picture >CLICK<. Put a male connector onto the end of that lead. Connect your wires to one another with the connects and turn on the bike. Press the signal cancel button with your thumb. You should see your display show the temp. While the temp is showing, press again to change it to the shock setting screen. If that all works, you're almost done. Make sure you route your new little wire so that there is enough play in it that it won't bind when you turn the bars side to side. Route it so it's not stretched and does not interfere with anything else. Meter panel back on and ride! How warm is it today?
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For a basic understanding of how relays work, click here.
Questions? Contact Chet at 
Chetspages@rattlebars.com
NOTE: on the '09 for
sure and possibly any model after '06, the PINK
wire is NOT ACCESSIBLE
under the pocket. It is only accessible from the left handlebar to
the green connector at the steering stem. It will be necessary to
run a line to the right pocket from there. The other wires
(GREEN/YELLOW, BLUE/BLACK/ AND GRAY) are under the pocket in the large
connectors.