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AND OTHER STUFF IF YOU WANT!

By Chet Walters
Click for Rattlebars Mfg.
Click for Chet's Wing Pages


After trying many combinations of controllers, I finally settled on using the DUAL REMOTE from warm&safe. The receiver is about the size of a pack of Dentine and there is only one wire from me to the bike for power. When in use, I have the knob unit attached with Velcro to the meter panel which makes it easy to tether to the key so it won't ever fly off. The receiver is in the inside pocket of my jacket and barely noticeable. When I use my pants, they plug into the second power out of the receiver through the waistband. Click pic for larger view.

I really needed a pair of heated pants to go with my antique Gerbing Jacket Liner. But I didn't want to pay over $200 for pants that only heated the thigh region. I wanted full coverage with extra heat at the hip and knee. This is my $36 solution.  These pants consume about 44 watts at 12v drawing around 3.5 amps. At 14 volts on your bike from the alternator, you should get 60+ watts and 4.5 amps. They need a shell which can be just the windproof pants from your rain suit, insulated ski/snow pants or your windproof riding pants of your own.

 $26 for 2 pair of pants - $6 for the 30awg wire - $2 for the plug - $6 for the PWM
TOTAL $40.50 not $200+ for pants that only heat the thigh region

MATERIALS
-30 feet 30 gauge teflon coated wire

-large needle with eye to fit wire
-2 pair 100% cotton waffle long johns

-20" coax pigtail  or SAE

-small  " eyelets
-heat shrink
-stuff to sew cuffs (machine?)
-PWM controller for at least 5A


OPTIONAL

-DUAL REMOTE from warm&safe

-Coax plug male pigtail
-Coax jack female pigtail

TOOLS
wire stripper
wire cutter
solder gun
large needle
small needle or
  sewing machine?
eyelet tool

 

 

PREPARE YOUR PIGTAILS AS NEEDED TO MATCH YOUR CONTROLLER
Click here for scrollable printable pic.
Turn one pair of long johns inside out. With the bulk of the wire left showing (it will be on the inside when done) "sew" the wire through the pants making sure that the wire will be where you need the heat. On my GL1800 that is from about 10 o'clock inside to about 7 o'clock outside with extra loops at the knees where my outer pants will be flattened. I did a couple extra loops at my hip joints too. You can modify the pattern shown in the title image, but I found the zig zag shown to work the best for comfort.

Once you are satisfied with the wiring, turn the pants right side out. Don your other pair of non-wired pants then carefully pull your wired outer pants over them. Have a helper pin the cuffs and the waistband in place. Remove both pair as a unit and install one " eyelet in the outer layer (the pants with the wire). Insert your pigtail heavy wire through the eyelet and tie it in a knot leaving enough to work with. Solder to the pigtail one end of your 30awg to + of 16awg and the other end of your 30awg to - of 16awg. I soldered and then heat shrunk plus used a zip tie for strain relief.

TEST YOUR PANTS!
Click here for scrollable printable pic.
Before finalizing, test! Once you finish sewing up, going back for adjustments will be difficult. With a sewing machine if available, sew your cuffs and waistband using a zig zag stretch elastic stitch making the pants firmly attached to one another.

For control, get a Pulse Width Modulating "fan" control. Search eBay for: "12v 10A Pulse Width". Make sure you get one that can handle at least 10 amps. I was good to go because my antique Gerbing jacket liner had an adequate 10A PWM so I just tied these pants in parallel with the jacket which had a plug waiting to use right there in the jacket. For separate temp control, I use a remote from Warm & Safe.

To see where I researched this, Google "DIY Heated Clothing"


Goldwing

Can-Am Spyder F3-T
YOU NEED TO POWER AND CONTROL
Click here for scrollable printable pic. Click here for scrollable printable pic.
For power, I have a power outlet from warm n safe at the switch panel which fits nicely in the location shown. (you can mount a SIZE N Radio Shack jack if you wish). The W&S outlet is capped and it is always hot through a 15a fuse so I can use it to power my air pump and also to easily plug in my battery trickle charger. To the right, I have a controller which lets me adjust the amount of heat this clothing puts out. To obtain one, just search eBay for a 10 amp pulse width modulator. You can obtain one of these remote controlled RF LED dimmer/controller for use with any heated circuit that draws less than 6 amps if you have already a controller for your heated jacket. That RF controller gets quite warm if working more than 5 amps and I cannot attest to its longevity. If you build the pants on this page it works great and has an infinite setting capability. It can easily be added inline between the plug and the garment and I recommend a heat sink using two pennies and some heat shrink over the chip area. For connection, you can use the pigtail  coax pigtail  but be sure to use shrink tube for insulation.


 

Here's an addition I made to my 1996 Gerbings jacket liner. It's an element
from an old seat heater kit which was unused. I added it to the back
and tied it into the internal wiring. Perfect fit and good match for heat! I'm sure
you know about the backdraft problem on the wing. Here is a solution!

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The information on these pages is accurate to the best of the author's knowledge. The author can assume no responsibility for the use or misuse of this information by the reader. The reader is expected to secure any other information needed from Service Manuals or other sources. It is up to the reader to determine his/her ability to make any modifications noted. If the reader does not feel qualified he/she should enlist professional help.