|The information on these pages is accurate to the best of the author's knowledge. The author can assume no responsibility for the use or misuse of this information by the reader. The reader is expected to secure any other information needed from Service Manuals or other sources. It is up to the reader to determine his/her ability to make any modifications noted. If the reader does not feel qualified he/she should enlist professional help.|
Also shown is a drawing for a typical light bar installation. Since light bars (with passing lamps) are often in constant usage, then one should wire them up so that when you press your starter button, they go out like your headlight does to reduce drain on the battery. One should ONLY wire as the drawing shows and use a relay. Should you wire your light bar lamps directly to the blue with white trace wire without a relay, you risk burning up your starter switch. USE A RELAY!
ADDING FOG LIGHTS
TIME: 90 minutes
Pilot PL-1067B Halogen Spot Lamps (Auto Zone $29.95)
14-16 gauge wire
1 center off toggle or rocker switch (optional)
4 splice-in wire connectors (blue plastic variety)
4 female quick disconnects (Radio Shack 64-3049)
1 Standard Duty Relay (Auto Zone $4.69)
or Radio Shack "Auto Relay" ($5.98)
1 in-line fuse holder with 15 amp fuse
weather resistant electrical tape
Phillips screw driver
drill with ¼" bit
QUICKLY FOR THE EXPERT: For intermittant use fog lamps, supply a fused +12V through the relay to your lamps. Activate the relay with the +12V blue high beam wire from the headlamp plug and any "key on" +12V wire through your center off switch. For constant use passing lamps on a light bar, supply the relay trigger with +12v from the headlight blue w/ white trace wire so it functions with the starter button as does the headlamp.
QUICKLY FOR THE MOTORHEADS: See the drawing. For fog lamps, the center off switch serves to trigger the relay: in one position when the high beam is on; in the other position when the key is on; and center off. For a light bar, the lights are off when the starter button is pushed and also with both the key and the installed switch -- else they are constantly on like the headlamp.
NOTE: this is a "layman's" drawing which shows only the terminals on the various parts. It is intentional that there are no electronic symbols included. The terminal numbers shown are from a typical relay, yours may vary.
FOR THE REST OF US: Remove: Your pilot's seat and the right (throttle) side cover; the headlight rim; and the front and rear mounting bolts of your gas tank (leave the tank in place). Loosen the petcock lever with a phillips screwdriver as illustrated and pull it loose from the valve. Remember its orientation so that you can re-install it properly. Disconnect the negative battery terminal as a precaution at this time.
Locate the tall narrow cover that says FUSE FUSIBLE under the right side cover and remove it. Remove the fuse from your in-line fuse holder. Loosen the upper screw on the main fuse (it's the one that the black battery cable is under). Strip a lead of your in line fuse holder and wrap it around the screw then tighten the screw. Purists will probably want to replace this "wrap" method with a spade connector for this connection. Splice a length of at least the AWG gauge wire that came with your lamps to the other lead of the fuse holder. Raise and tilt your tank to the left (clutch) side of the bike. NOTE: When tipping the tank, please be careful of the things that attach at the rear of the tank. There is a vacuum hose and a fragile fuel petcock. It is possible to tilt your tank without removing these items, just raise the front of the tank first and tilt it to the side. Run your wire along the main harness through the existing clips, under the tank, crossing over at the front of the frame. Leaving yourself plenty of wire for routing and steering, install a FEMALE connector on the end of this wire and plug it onto the "IN" terminal (30/51) on your relay.
FOR A LIGHT BAR:|
Light Bar lamps are mostly constantly on like your headlight. To ideally hook up a light bar, locate the DARK BLUE with WHITE TRACE wire inside your headlight housing (on Valk Standard Tourer it will be individually connnected with a bullet as shown. On VTX and Valk Interstate it is in the six pin mini connector coming from the throttle side harness). Don't use your LIGHT BLUE/WHITE running light wire. Use the DARK BLUE with WHITE TRACE wire with a single pole single throw switch - your basic plain vanilla regular SPST two terminal (one in one out) switch - to your relay trigger hot (86). Since this wire is unpowered when the starter button is pushed, your fog lamps will go out with the headlight to reduce stress on your battery during starting. One should ONLY wire as the drawing above shows and use a relay. Should you wire your lamps directly to the DARK BLUE with WHITE TRACE wire without a relay, you risk burning up your starter switch. USE A RELAY!
|For the VTX, here are some possible hookup wires inside the headlight.|
FOR AN UPGRADED COBRA LIGHT BAR (and others):|
Cobra and other light bars ship with 35 watt lamps which are run directly off a key-on hot wire through a switch without using a relay. The stock wiring will handle these low wattage lamps fairly well. But, should you upgrade the lamps to 50 watts or more, it is a good idea to add a relay to the circuit in order to prevent damage to your wiring.
With the Cobra light bar, since the switch is located right in the bar itself, one can use the switch to interrupt the ground from the relay instead of the hot to the relay. This simplifies the wiring since the lamps also use the light bar for ground and only one wire runs from the lamps into the headlight for +12v hookup. If you use this illustrated way of wiring the switch, your relay will require only one additional wire to be run and it is easily hidden (as shown in the pic at top left) in the wire tie channel along with the hot wires for the lights.
Other light bars may vary from this configuration, but here you can see how easy it is to trigger a relay by either switching the ground terminal 85 or switching the trigger terminal 86 or BOTH as we do here (both the switch on the light bar as well as the starter switch work the lamps). If you do choose to switch ground instead of hot, you must keep both your relay and ground wire insulated so that the only ground available to the relay is through the switch.
We will now supply current from two sources through the switch to trigger the relay. For the HIGH BEAM: attach a wire to the DARK BLUE wire that goes to the headlight plug with a blue splice-in connector. Run that wire to your switch and attach it to one of the end terminals. For the KEY ON: attach a wire to the SOLID BROWN wire within the headlight housing with a blue splice-in connector. Run that wire to your switch and attach it to the other end terminal. Skip to MOUNTING THE LAMPS.
USING THE HIGH BEAM ONLY
Using a blue splice-in connector, attach a wire to the DARK BLUE wire that goes to the headlight plug. Install a FEMALE connector onto the end of this wire and plug it onto the "activator/switch/tirgger" terminal (86) of your relay. Install a FEMALE connector onto the end of a 8 inch pigtail of wire and plug this onto the GROUND terminal of your relay. Using a blue splice-in connector, attach this wire to any of the GREEN ground wires within your headlight housing.
MOUNTING THE LAMPS
If you are not using the PL-1067's, mount your lamps and run your wires any way that you need to and skip to FINISH UP.
I have installed on NightMare an UnderWhere™ cover from Rattlebars Mfg. (of course). This makes it easy for me to mount the lights right onto this nifty plate. It comes with a template for drilling mounting holes for these Pilot lights or PIAA 1400 series lights. If you want a different kind of lamp they need to be small. Check the illustration at the left for how to measure to see if you have clearance under the triple clamp for your choice of lights . I applied rubber tape to the top of the bracket so that there would be good friction and bolted the brackets to the UnderWhere plate. If you don't have the UnderWhere plate, you must fashion brackets similar to the one that holds your horn, but shorter, and heavy enough so the lights don't vibrate. Attach one end of these brackets under the bolts that hold your brake lines to the triple clamp. Mount your lamps to the other end of the brackets. Try to keep them as far under the triple clamp as possible so that they do not shine up into the windshield.
The PL-1067's harness needs a lot of rework. Once you've mounted the lamps, you'll have to design the harness so it looks attractive and reaches the lamps. I will not describe that here.
Install a FEMALE connector onto the "HOT" lead of your lamp harness (PL-1067 WHITE) and plug that onto the "OUT" terminal (87) of your relay. For non-chassis grounded lights, run the GROUND wire of your lamps (PL-1067 BLACK) back into the headlight and splice it into any of the GREEN wires within the housing. Install your in line fuse and re-attach the negative battery cable. Flip your switch to the center position. Turn on your key. Your new lamps should be off. Flip your switch to the "works with the high beam" position. Work your OEM high beam switch. The lamps should come on with the high beam and go off with the low beam. Flip your switch to the "key on" position. Your lamps should be on regardless of the position of the OEM high beam switch.
It works? Good! Tape up all your wires (remember to leave freeplay for steering), seal the relay and mount the relay using the back screw inside of the headlight housing. Put your bike back together. Wait for night time and go out there and burn some retinas!
NOTE: I hardly run with the Hondaline WS on during warm weather so these lights gave me no grief and lit up the road like springtime. Since the cold has set in, I've been running with the HL WS and find that they shine up behind the shield somewhat. It's not that bad, really, but I decided that I would try to solve the problem. I went to the Harley shop and got some Harley turn signal visors at $6.95 for the pair. They are designed with the curve for the Harley lights and they have four tabs at the rear for mounting. On the Harley, these tabs fit behind the lens. To fit PL-1067B's, it was necessary to do a little modification. First, I cut the center two tabs down to 1/8 of an inch (a little less than half their original length). Next, I bent the end tabs straight in line with the plane of the visor. I got four ¼" stainless washers, removed the side bolts on the lights, put a washer under each bolt and put the bolts back in very loose. Bent the ends of the visors so that they matched the oval shape of the lights. To install, I hooked the middle tabs of the visors onto the tops of the lights (just on the back edge of the part that is spot welded to the light housing) and slipped the straightened end tabs under the washers. Held it all in place & snugged up the bolts. Look great (PHOTO) . No glare. Still light up the road like springtime.
Headlight (and Light Bar)
Most starter switches burn out because the headlight draws heavy current through faulty contacts at the headlight circuit. One can relieve some of the strain on the headlight contacts by taking them completely out of the headlight circuit and asking them merely to keep a relay triggered. Inside the headlight, cut your BLUE/WHITE lead and affix a relay into the cut as depicted in the diagram at left. Then take a lead off of your BLACK/RED +12v from the headlight fuse wire and use that to feed the power in terminal. Optional headlight switching can be added by placing a switch which cuts the ground of the relay as shown. Additional lighting up front can be added to the output terminal with proper cautions taken with the guage of the wires and the amperage of the fuses involved.
Circuit based on a post on the VTXOA board by Vegas Duval.
One should note that many relay packages are incorrectly labeled. The package that this relay came from labeled terminal 87a as "power to lamps" just like 87 when the 87a terminal is actually "normally on" and goes cold when the relay is triggered. One should test these terminals to determine what each actually does before making a permanent installation. Usually, if the center terminal is labeled ON THE RELAY as "87a" then it is usually a normally on terminal and will go hot (complete the circuit with terminal 30) when the trigger is cold. If it is also ON THE RELAY labeled as terminal "87" then it will usually be a normally off just like the outer 87 terminal. These 87 terminals can be used creatively as input to feed current from two sources to the 30 used as output. Details on use of these terminals in this reversed fashion can be found at http://www.rattlebars.com/goodies/bulk.html One should always mount a relay of this type with the terminals down and it helps to seal the seams around the case and terminals with silicone seal. These relays are sensitive to moisture and they will corrode if directly exposed.
One should test these terminals to determine what each actually does before making a permanent installation. Terminals on this three post relay are labled here with the functions of the terminals matched to the more common 4&5 post relay above. These terminals are not interchageable and the case provides the ground. This relay appears very similar to a typical auto horn relay, but most auto horn relay completes the ground circuit and is unusable in other applications. One should always mount a relay of this type with the terminals down and it helps to seal the seams around the case and terminals with silicone seal. These relays are sensitive to moisture and they will corrode if directly exposed.
|More how-to articles for the Valkyrie|
|Feet Heaters||Extra Horns||Four Way Flashers||Carb shims|
|Signal Buzzer||Driving Lights||Horny Lights||Invisible Vista|
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