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Caution! This mod will disable the kill switch for its intended use. Perform this mod with the
full knowledge that you will have no means to kill your motor other than the ignition key!
With OPTION TWO your start button will get voltage when the bank angle sensor is tripped!

THERE ARE TWO WAYS TO DO THIS MOD, USE ONLY ONE OF THEM!

The information on these pages is accurate to the best of the author's knowledge. The author can assume no responsibility for the use or misuse of this information by the reader. The reader is expected to secure any other information needed from Service Manuals or other sources. It is up to the reader to determine his/her ability to make any modifications noted. If the reader does not feel qualified he/she should enlist professional help.

Your Kill Switch can lead a new life!
A twelve step program to better switching...
How's about a nice reachable light switch? Or toggle your nitrous system to use the horn button instead of the horn? Kool!
By Chet Walters

In 40k miles, I think I've used the kill switch maybe twice. I've never actually needed it in a "situation" and if I've fallen (which I have), the bank sensor took care of me. Some folks claim using the kill switch then turning off the key will save the key, but I see the lights still on and all that with the method and the meek terminals in the kill switch only drop voltage from the coils... so what? I was desperate for another light switch to trigger my mini light bar relay and the kill switch just seemed to fit the bill. Gee, it works just like the HI/LO switch on the other side and it's "normally on" just like I want my light bar to be and couldn't be easier to reach with a thumb or finger... but...

THERE ARE TWO WAYS TO DO THIS MOD, USE ONLY ONE OF THEM!

Caution! This mod will disable the kill switch for its intended use. Perform this mod with the
full knowledge that you will have no means to kill your motor other than the ignition key!
With OPTION TWO your start button will get voltage when the bank angle sensor is tripped!


Kill Switch Modification
TIME: 60 minutes

MATERIALS
Stainless wrapping wire
18-20 gauge wire
weather resistant electrical tape
small zip ties
whatever wiring you will need for your accessory
TOOLS
#2 Phillips Screwdriver
Heavy Hat Pin? (YUP!)
Solder and iron
knife or wire stripper
wire cutter

QUICKLY FOR THE EXPERT: To use the kill switch for something else, we need to isolate its twin leads but in so doing, we must preserve the +12v that the bank sensor once fed to the coils through the switch and find another +12v source for the start button. We can either use an alternate +12v from the brake light switch or we can run a new wire through the sleeve to the nacelle which will restore proper function to the start button relative to the bank sensor by tieing again into the bank sensor above our break in the former kill switch feed.
WE CANNOT DO BOTH OPTIONS BUT WE MUST DO ONE OF THEM!

QUICKLY FOR THE MOTORHEADS: See the drawing. Cut the feed from the +12v bank sensor kill switch lead to the starter switch. Break both leads from the kill switch down inside the headlight to isolate them for another use (ideally by removing the terminals from the plug). Shunt the bank sensor +12v feeding it directly to the coils. The starter switch will now need +12v independent of the kill switch. If you can, OPTION ONE (running a new wire through the sleeve to the headlight) and getting back into the bank sensor +12v is the best option since it will keep the starter switch disabled should the bank sensor get tripped. If it is not possible to run a new wire through to inside the headlight then by using OPTION TWO you can bleed +12v off the brake light switch inside the housing to start the bike.
WE CANNOT DO BOTH OPTIONS BUT WE MUST DO ONE OF THEM!.
NOTE: this is a "layman's" drawing which shows only the terminals on the various parts. It is intentional that there are no electronic symbols included.

Click here to view the stock wiring for the kill switch.

FOR THE REST OF US:
Click any picture to see enlargement
Click resuting picture to see next
Use backspace key for previous
STEP ONE: Remove the right side harness
Unplug the brake light switch leads from the brake light switch and pull the housing. You folks with Standards have it a little easier. You don't need to actually remove the housing and can just drop down the lower part. It's a little crowded to work, but much easier than taking off the whole nine yards. Interstate guys? Remove the housing.

NOTE: Make a mental note or actually take a photograph of the wiring inside the housing so you can put it all back together. We have pics here, but REMEMBER where everything went! Note also that though the screws holding the switches inside there are tiny ones, they still take a #2 phillips to remove them. That's the BIG phillips head.

STEP ONEa: Just an illustration
Well, this is not actually a step, but information is power. This pic shows where the start and kill +12v leads were spliced together. It is NOT necessary to cut anything up like this shows, just wanted you to have a look inside. Cut only the zip tie and what shows in the next steps.
STEP TWO: Cut the starter switch +12v lead
Take your time here. Cut the zip tie from the harness. Pull back the sleeves and zip tie them out of your way. Leaving about an inch of the BLACK w/ WHITE wire that comes from the starter switch, cut it. Fold the part toward the harness back on itself and tape it off good. Strip about 1/16" from the remaining starter wire pigtail.

Ideally, use OPTION ONE and run a whole new wire to the headlight by cutting an 18 guage wire about three feet long and taping it to a straightened wire coat hanger. Pull your harness loose through the back of the headlight, hold it straight and run the wire through the sleeve. Solder the new wire to the BLACK w/ WHITE pigtail from the starter button that we just made. Tape it up good and skip to STEP SIX. IF YOU CHOOSE OPTION ONE YOU MUST SKIP NOW TO STEP SIX. DO NOT DO BOTH OPTIONS!

DO NOT DO THIS STEP IF YOU HAVE RUN A NEW WIRE FOR OPTION ONE
STEP THREE: Locate the +12v from the brake switch wires
Honda wasn't very kind here and made both the brake switch wires BLACK. You need to find the one that is hot with the key on. Set up with a test lamp and stick your hat pin into the wire to determine which wire is hot with the key on (you have a 50/50 chance to get it right the first time!). Mark it. This will supply voltage to your start switch in place of the former connection to the bank sensor. Ummm.. turn your key off now to avoid mishaps. (I know, you could just check a terminal, but those ol' BLACK wires go through a sleeve and who knows what mischief they can twist into by the time they exit).
DO NOT DO THIS STEP IF YOU HAVE RUN A NEW WIRE FOR OPTION ONE
STEP FOUR: Strip and make an eyelet
Strip a little of the wire from the hot brake lead where the BLACK w/ WHITE start wire can reach (make this toward the harness side above where the bend in the brake wires is so that it will be inside the housing when you put it all back together). With your hat pin or a small awl, make an eyelet into which you can insert the starter lead.
DO NOT DO THIS STEP IF YOU HAVE RUN A NEW WIRE FOR OPTION ONE
STEP FIVE: Twist and solder the connection
STOP! If you find yourself trying to solder a second wire to the BLACK w/ WHITE lead from the start button, stop now and read this all again.

Insert the BLACK w/ WHITE starter pigtail into the eyelet, twist a little and solder up. Tape it up with just enough tape to insulate (there's not going to be much room once you put it back together).

STEP SIX: Restore the harness to its former glory
Remove your temporary holding zip ties and pull the sleeves back in place. Bend the brake wires like they were (see the pics above) and put a zip tie where the original one was (where you can see the marks in the sleeves). Trim the zip tie. Right now would be a good time to perform your annual STARTER SWITCH MAINTENANCE. <== Click that link for how....
STEP SEVEN: Put the housing back together
Put the housing back together (remember that you were supposed to remember how it went from step one?) but DON'T screw it onto the bar yet. You'll wanna do a smoke test first. We will now move onto the "inside the headlight" portion of our program.
STEP EIGHT: Locate all the pertinent wires
Inside your headlight (if you don't know how to get in there you probably shouldn't be doing this anyway) find the black square 9 pin plug that comes from the right handlebar. In the corner of this are the leads from the kill switch that you just isolated inside the housing (BLACK w/ WHITE and BLACK w/ GREEN). Depress the tab of the plug and separate.

It might be helpful to note that the BLUE w/ WHITE wire (on a STANDARD it's individually connected with a bullet connector while on an IS it's in 15 pin plug which has two empty slots) from this harness is the one that feeds the headlight and goes cold when the start button is pressed. It's handy for hooking up a relay for a light bar as described at this FOGLITES link.

STEP NINE: Remove connectors from the female plug
An option here is to simply cut the BLACK w/ WHITE and BLACK w/ GREEN leads on the handlebar side of this plug, twist the leads from the plug together and solder them up (adding the new wire if you've chosen OPTION ONE) then just use the other leads for your switching. But I prefer to save the OEM wiring and if you look at the footnote, you'll see another good reason to preserve the connectors here.... Grab your useful little hat pin and use it to remove the BLACK w/ WHITE and BLACK w/ GREEN wires from the plug. To do this, insert the pin as shown and depress the little tab in there. Wiggle the wire some and it will come out of the plug.
STEP TEN: Restore the tabs to their former glory
Use the pin to push the tabs back out and bend them up like they used to be. (This is not really necessary, but if you've removed the wrong wire by mistake, it's helpful to know how to put these terminals back in the right way).
STEP ELEVEN: Tie the two leads together
This step is IMPORTANT! The BLACK w/ WHITE wire feeds your coils from the BLACK w/ GREEN wire. Your bike will not run if you don't tie these wires together! Slide the connectors together and wrap with some stainless wrapping wire (I know, you can solder them or splice them, but doing it this way will allow you to put your bike all back to OEM condition if you ever have the need like the footnote describes). Note: don't try to feed your coils with any other hot wire because the BLACK w/ GREEN goes dead should your bank sensor get tripped. You don't wanna disable that safety feature.

If you have chosen OPTION ONE and run a whole new wire through the sleeve from the starter BLACK w/ WHITE, hook that wire into these wires as well. Again, WE CANNOT DO BOTH OPTIONS BUT WE MUST DO ONE OF THEM!

STEP TWELVE: Free up your newly freed up switch leads
Now, after all that work, you surely want to make available the new switch leads you just created. The male side of the plug works similarly to the female. There are little tabs that hold the connectors in the plug. Depress the tab with the pin and pull the wire out. This picture shows them already removed. Before you put the plug back together, slop it up good with some Silicone Gel from Radio Shack and plug it back together.

Do the smoke test now. See if your starter works. See if your bike will run. Don't forget, your kill switch ain't gonna work now. If all is well, button it up!

STEP TWELVEa: Well, it is a twelve step program and who likes thirteen?
I prefer to preserve these connectors (see footnote) so I have used the wire wrap method to connect my light bar. I've taken a lead from the BLUE w/ WHITE headlight wire and wrapped it to the BLACK w/ GREEN kill switch lead which runs through the kill switch and out to the BLACK w/ WHITE lead. The BLACK w/ WHITE has a lead wrapped to it which goes to my light bar relay trigger terminal 86. This way, I can switch my light bar on/off with the kill switch easily and when I press the starter button to start 'er up, the light bar goes out with the headlight to ease stress on the battery.
OH! And did we mention this???
THERE ARE TWO WAYS TO DO THIS MOD, USE ONLY ONE OF THEM!

Caution! This mod will disable the kill switch for its intended use. Perform this mod with the
full knowledge that you will have no means to kill your motor other than the ignition key!
With OPTION TWO your start button will get voltage when the bank angle sensor is tripped!

THERE ARE TWO WAYS TO DO THIS MOD, USE ONLY ONE OF THEM!


NOTE: Ideally, OPTION ONE is best so cut the BLACK w/ WHITE lead inside the housing then feed a whole new wire down through the sleeve into the headlight in order to feed the start button again with the bank sensor BLACK w/ GREEN (see STEP TWO and STEP ELEVEN and the drawing of OPTION ONE). This preserves the bank tripped = dead starter function. But, I have stainless coils around my bar wire sleeves (click here to see) and some have run their wiring through the handlebars which makes running an extra wire a little tough to do.

Another reason to preserve your connectors and use stainless wrap in STEPS NINE through TWELVEa: State inspections often require that your kill switch work properly. You can still do this if you preserve your connectors on the BLACK w/ WHITE and BLACK w/ GREEN wires from the 9 pin plug. Before you head to the inspection station, simply un-tape the original connectors, take off your "other function" wiring, plug the connectors back in watching the color coding (you don't even have to put them back in the plastic plugs, just connect them male to female color to color and insulate them separately). Don't forget if you've used OPTION ONE to hook your new starter button wire to the BLACK w/ WHITE again here. Pass your inspection, get your stickers and fix it all back again in about 10 minutes. Of course, I don't recommend doing this. You didn't hear this here. I didn't say any of this. Not for human consumption. Do not eat contents of envelope. This is not a step. Keep out of reach of children. Close cover before striking. This side up. Consumption of alcohol may cause side effects. Call your mom if you have trouble. Wear safety glasses and use titanium bolts for everything you do.

Thanks to V-Man for the update. See, I don't live in a communist state like he does so I didn't even think of this advantage to preserving your connectors until he mentioned it.


Questions? Contact Chet at Chet says 'Be sure to write!'Chetspages@rattlebars.com


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