Click here for scrollable printable pic.
Since this method will be used throughout and there will be more additions to this page as time goes on, the description of the method used to connect the wires is right here up front! I don't like Scotch locks for wire splice in. Even LeverLocks , which are very large (often too large for tight spaces), require you cut a wire or two. BOTH are bulky, often loosen over time and corrode. Soldering is best, but that is sometimes very difficult if not impossible. I often use the "tuck and roll" method (shown at right) which works good on smaller connectors with light gauge wires, but that's sometimes not practical with these tight mini connectors. Using, in the order of ease of use and durability: a safety pin leg (good for waterproof connectors), a leg from a diode/resistor, 1 inch length of 20-22 gauge bell wire (solid copper not strands) or a ceiling tile staple, one can make a "probe" that will slip into a connector from behind on the plug as shown. Grab a proper size gauge diode or safety pin and cut off a leg leaving enough to re-use the diode. Solder your lead onto one leg end leaving about 1/2" or more of a leg free. Put on some heat shrink and lube it good with bulb grease and insert tightly into the back of the plug so that it makes good contact with the connector of the needed wire. After "smoke" testing, zip tie or tape it to the existing wire and zip tie to the harness too for good strain relief. (if doing a waterproof connector, you can add a dollop of hot glue or bulb grease before tying off). This way, if you ever need to disconnect that which you have connected, simply cut the zip ties and "unplug" your piggy back EZ Splice. Works great and it's easy. One helpful thing here is to use a "Helping Hand" soldering stand available at Radio Shack to help make a neat solder of the wire to the leg/pin. I've been using this method for 20 years in inclement weather of all sorts including snow, salt and mud (on my quads) and have never lost a connection. To the purist. A connector is a device which slides one metal "blade" over another metal "blade" to make a connection. We are merely doing exactly the same thing. There are commercial versions of this here: *click me*

Heated clothing outlet and maintainer inlet

This outlet/inlet supplies power for my heated gear and doubles as a receiver from my battery maintainer. Pulled the bag and just needed to use a 1/4" coaxial so that I can unplug it should I ever need to remove the bag again. Drilled one hole and hid all the wiring under the seat coming from the battery directly. This is Warm n Safe's outlet module.
See how to make your own heated gear >click here<.

After trying many combinations of controllers, I finally settled on using the DUAL REMOTE from warm&safe. The receiver is about the size of a pack of Dentine and there is only one wire from me to the bike for power. When in use, I have the knob unit attached with Velcro to the meter panel which makes it easy to tether to the key so it won't ever fly off. The receiver is in the inside pocket of my jacket and barely noticeable. When I use my homade pants, they plug into the second power out of the receiver through the waistband. Click pic for larger view (shown on my 2006 gold wing).

Garmin 1450 gps mount

RAM stuff is just too bulky. More suited for mounts on a dually truck. I am a minimalist so I went my own route. I did utilize RAM's Garmin 1450 cradle but I drilled and tapped 2 holes in my bar clamp for #10 screws. I bent a hunk of 14 gauge light steel at a 45° angle and mounted it to my cradle and clamp. The screws were hex head so that I could tighten them in the narrow space. Painted black with truck bed liner it blends right fine with F3T textured black motif. Power comes up from the GPS System power using an eBay right angle unit threaded through the button/key shroud. Minimal. The pic to the left shows the rider view and the full compliment of the Spyder dash is unobstructed.

Or how I beat the CANbus
click for audio version of this description
The OEM turn signals in the rear are incandescent and hopelessly dim. I wanted to add surface mount Ultra Bright LED lights (T3) in the guise of Feniex T3 Perimeter Mount LED (Amber) to supplement them. However, the CANbus is a pain in the BUS! When I first tried to put these extra T3 lights on, I just (foolishly) hooked them up straight to the signal wires on each side using the EZ-Splice method shown above. The T3s worked. but the bike went into rapid fire bulb out error. UGH! So now what? The lights draw about .3 AMPs which is likely too much for the CANbus circuit to not error. The idea struck me to insert a relay inline so the BUS would see very little draw ameliorating the difference between installed and not. The relay was small & meant for a computer, but it still drew too much current. I had one Radio Shack reed relay in my collection so I tried that... voilà! It worked! But I only had one. On the other side I tried a smaller computer relay and again voilà! I used the tail circuit (orange) to feed +12v to the extra LED reducing the load on the signal wire. The OEM signal +12v is fed to the relay coil and ground is ground. I  purchased some 4 conductor wire at Lowes which had RED, BLACK, GREEN & WHITE wires. The pic illustrates which wires to where on the reed relay (eBay) and the arrows show it on the computer relay and if you need to know what the relay terminal numbers mean, look >here<. These relays can be found on eBay and @ Radio Shack (if you have one nearby). The T3 needs to be set to full bright on mode which times out in about 5 seconds but it works well for a signal. That mode is between strobe once then full (light just strobes as a signal so can't use) and constant on but dim (clearly unsatisfactory). Here is the PDF >click<.

The video at left shows my T3 signals, T3 strobe/flashing brake light, Custom Dynamics Knight Riderz 21 LED top light bar and the tinted short bottom light bar. The four corners of my license plate frame also has white but not so bright strobe lights which flash until I let off the brake pedal.

The brake Feniex T3 Perimeter Mount LED (RED) strobes quickly once using a solid state 8 AMP brake light flasher module from Amazon which is barely the size of a quarter. It strobes quickly then goes to solid but..... because I have the T3 set to flash every three seconds the two units combined cause the T3 to strobe quickly once then flash every three seconds on/off until I let off the pedal. For this video, I have masked off the utlra bright flashing T3 brake light because it washed out all the others. When viewed directly these T3 LEDs are remarkable. You can see the three LEDs through the tape. I ran into a bit of trouble with the CANbus with the long light bar. I had it feeding from the tail light ORANGE off the right tail light connector. When I put on the right signal, because I was feeding my T3 amber signal light from the tail ORANGE, the light bar exhibited some strange behavior. It would flicker, run only in one direction, flash just 3 of the LEDs and other goofy stuff.  So, I set that light bar to run off the OEM GPS circuit and everything was then copacetic.

Gold wing horns and hORNY STROBE LIGHTS
A real attention getter to go along with my Gold Wing horns!
The stock horn is one of those totally inadequate "gee, I'm sorry to bother you but beep  ".. pieces of junk. I was always happy with my GL1800 horns and found a set (hi & lo) on eBay for $24! The harmonics produced with the stock horn and the GL horns is BLARING! The strobes fire for 15 seconds after the first BEEP! I've been running horny strobes for many years on all my bikes and never had a problem with any LEO. The horns and wiring are mounted behind the grille with sticky tape in that big cavern under the frunk.

The necessary wiring diagram is shown at the left using a standard Bosch auto relay, a time delay relay  and an alternating strobe module. Because the OEM horn wire is always hot, the horn button completes the ground at the horn. We use that GROUND to switch our BOSCH relay at terminal 85. I powered it all directly from the battery lead supplied with the F3T. I replaced the 7.5 amp with a 10 amp fuse in it which the wire gauge will easily handle. The LEDs I used were from an old set of remote programmable strobes but the  module it came with didn't remember the setting after being unpowered so I just used the 4  LED lights with another alternating strobe module. I mounted the lights to the grille with the sticky back that comes on them and a zip tie through the screen and around the wire of each light. The end of the video below shows the action. You can run very many strobe lights off any strobe module by using the same relay I used for my signals. You will need two for alternating. Circuit here:>click<. Video below or >CLICK<.


Bungee loops for tie downs

The problem with tie downs across the back seat... Bungees mar the handles and or the seat vinyl.  What to do? You could buy some expensive bungee hooks or such, but I have fixed it for pennies with black paracord. You can choose another color, but all you need to is tie a loop of paracord using the bowline knot as shown at right and capture it behind the big washers. Make sure you melt the paracord to itself at the knot to avoid inadvertent undoing.