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Highway pegs?
on a SPORT BIKE???
Yup, on the GL1800 Wing
By Chet Walters
Click for Chet's Wing Pages

Using Kuryakyn parts ($190), you can have highway pegs without losing much of the sport aspect of this awesome bike!
Here's a challenge!

1. Must not reduce ground clearance - minimum, 1/2"
(conflicts with #2)
2. Must be mounted low for bad back
(conflicts with #1)
3. Must be comfortable and wide because of fairing
(conflicts with #4)
4. Must be attractive and non-bulky so as to not destroy lines of bike
(conflicts with #3)
Magnum Clamps #7940
Large Pegs #7965
90 mounts #4511
2 1/2" peg extender #8064
SAE Allen wrenchs
3/4" socket 1/2" drive
Click any picture to see enlargement
Click resuting picture to see next
Use backspace key for previous
GOAL ONE: do that ground clearance thing....
Click here for scrollable printable pic.
Method to measure ground clearance on a motorcycle. This may be important as you want hard parts to hit before functioning parts like shifters and brake pedals (and feet!). Take a 2 foot by 8 foot sheet of half inch plywood and slide it up against the front and back wheels while the bike is on the stand (or someone holds it upright for you).

NOTE: This is not a precise measurment of clearance as your suspension would be compressed in a turn but it will suffice for our purposes.

GOAL ONE (cont): check to see what parts hit the ground first in a lean
Click here for scrollable printable pic.
Raise the board to simulate a lean. Check what hard part hits first and what clearance you may have after that solid part strikes the board (ground). Granted, this does not simulate a stressed suspension, but it's a REAL challenge to to this when the bike is moving! On the GL 1800, the front engine guard hits first and there's not much left over after that for anything else. This bike has excellent clearance for a "touring" model... well designed. Let's stay with what the engineers designed into this puppy and make our highway pegs not reduce ground clearance much at all if any. (not easy)
GOAL ONE/TWO/THREE: locate and use the Kuryakyn parts needed
Click here for scrollable printable pic.
The list above shows the parts necessary, but a little explanation of why I chose those parts is in order. I wanted nothing much in the way of HARD parts to stick out at all. Hence, the short right angle mount on a magnum clamp. This, mounted on the rear strut of the crash guard provides that solution. But, these pegs need to stick out because of the fairing in the way plus I need them low for two reasons: I need to ride that way since having my legs splayed in some bizarre gynocological fashion on pegs hurts my back in a very short time; keeping my legs below the hot air flow from the radiator exit vents was a must. So, the "soft" (folding) parts needed to be VERY LONG. Best I could do was the 2.5" extender and the long ISO pegs which yield seven inches of extension from the clevis. The combination is excellent! With the modifications I have done which are listed below, I loose NO GROUN CLEARANCE at all. But, if you are not into doing the extra mods listed, this setup as is will lose you about 3/8" clearance, which is truly workable.)
Click here for scrollable printable pic.
Now ya see them! NO YA DON'T!

Note: The right angle mounts come with a right handed (standard) thread side and a left handed thread side. Mount them so that the pressure from your foot will tend to "tighten" the setup. In this case, the left handed thread went on the right side of the bike.

LOW IS KILLER: on chromed aluminum
Click here for scrollable printable pic.
VERY SLICK! Just take a hint from Honda and put a "road sensor" on your peg. That's right, they call that little acorn on the bottom of your peg a road sensor! Just add one to the Kury highway peg. This model has enough meat to do it. Note that you should determine after you mount the peg where this will go, mine are at 5 o'clock.

Making for more adjustable pegs while causing ZERO ground clearance loss
Click here for scrollable printable pic.
Like I did on my Valk pegs, I ground off the face of the peg mount so that the peg would "sag" beyond straight with the clevis. I drilled a 9/32 hole and tapped to 10 x 24 thread then inserted a 10 x 24 x 3/8" long allen set screw to make up for the lost face of the peg mount (make sure you go deep enough so the allen goes all the way in, shown in the pic out a little bit for illustration only). By adjusting the allen in and out, I can make the peg tilt at any angle needed! Use a little threadlock.
Mount and adjust the pegs as needed
Click here for scrollable printable pic.
Since I was able to "sag" the peg, I could then raise the clevis so that the 3/8" clearance I had lost was a thing of the past. Now there is NO CLEARANCE LOST at all with this setup. I just needed to adjust the allen so that the peg was at the original angle that it was coming straight out of the clevis. This pic is exaggerated with "sag" for illustration. Once satisfied, paint the part you ground the chrome off of with auto touch up paint to prevent rusting.
In use, of course
Click here for scrollable printable pic.
Leg is fairly straight, but not completely (if it's straight, you'll get cramps). Low enough so the air flow from the radiator goes around the legs. Very comfortable.
Various positions possible....
Click here for scrollable printable pic.
By using Dually Iso Pegs, one can rest the heel on the footpeg and the toe on the highway peg which is similar to having floorboards or that toe rest that was popular on the 1500. Other possibilities shown as well.
Why you should not add anything to your shifter or brake pegs.
Click here for scrollable printable pic.
There ain't no room to do it. Be very careful adding things to the functional parts of your bikes. If you make your bike shift for you (it ain't automatic) in a turn, disaster! If you disable your brake pedal.... ouch! Watch it!

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The information on these pages is accurate to the best of the author's knowledge. The author can assume no responsibility for the use or misuse of this information by the reader. The reader is expected to secure any other information needed from Service Manuals or other sources. It is up to the reader to determine his/her ability to make any modifications noted. If the reader does not feel qualified he/she should enlist professional help.