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This adds what I consider a vital safety feature
By Chet Walters
Based on an idea by Fred H.
Click for Chet's Wing Pages

Click here for some extra lights for your signals such as Hidden Mirror Arrows and Cornering Lights.

Click any picture to enlarge - close window when done viewing.


Four 4" different colored segments
22 gauge wire

1 or 2 diodes  Radio Shack  (276-1653)

1 or 2 reed relay Radio Shack  (275-233) or equivalent auto relay

electrical tape


4 Zip Ties

Shrink Wrap

Bulb Grease

#2 Phillips


soldering iron

I first saw this mod on the GL1800 Riders Tech board and thought it would be a nice addition to the GL1800. I personally consider it a vital safety feature.  The grunt work was done by Fred H.

Being on a bike, I like to turn on my signals early so cagers have plenty of time to react.  This poses a bit of a problem on the GL1800 because it has has auto-cancel.  Often, especially when I'm turning into my driveway, the blinker is no longer blinking by the time I'm sitting and waiting on opposing traffic to allow me to make that left turn.  The solution was to hit the blinker switch twice - this has two flaws:  #1 I have to remember to do it (not so easy these days) and #2, if I'm working the brake and the clutch, it's a bit of a stretch to reach the blinker switch, too. Back in '06 - Fred H. (Angel Ride Videos) posted a neat solution on the GL1800 Riders Tech board.  He determined that the cancel unit gets a ground pulse which starts the countdown counter.  If one can pulse the cancel unit using a normal activity while riding, the counter will get reset to zero as if one had pumped the switch again. He devised a method to pulse the cancel unit with the brake light meaning that when your brake is on (a normal part of preparing for a turn) your signal countdown counter would never advance hence no timed signal cancel.  The circuit shown is a modification of Fred's circuit with the change being the wire with which we cause the relay to pulse ground.  Fred used GREEN/RED which can only be accessed from the relay under the seat making for a cumbersome run of a long wire under the shelter. I chose to use the GREEN/YELLOW from the handlebar brake lever switch (it gets "hot" from the brake pedal as well) to trigger the relay because it's located in the same harness assembly as the other wires involved.  One can accomplish the whole feat in a single compact package under the right front pocket (at least in models prior to '06).  The circuit is shown at left drawn by Fred and modified by yours truly.  Click for a bigger version.

This first method works on bikes if one does not use a relay that has any delay in switching off.  I have no problems using a single reed relay and others have reported that there is no problem using a normal auto relay such as the one discussed on my Basic Relay Page.





For this application, we will use the "probe" method for splicing into the system wires we will use.  The reason? These wires go to three different connectors and we may need to separate them at a later date.  One can solder a joint, but if you do, it would be wise to add four bullet connectors to your installation for easy disconnect later.

For our probes, we will use the EZ-Splice method detailed below >CLICK<, but we will use the actual diodes for two of our "probes" and will use the clipped off portion of the diode wire soldered to the necessary wire for the other two.  The probe section needs to be about 5/8" long as illustrated. Prepare your circuit package as shown in FIGURE TWO taking care to orient the diodes properly and using the proper terminals on the reed relay. Cover the relay part with large heat shrink and apply heat.  Pinch the "open" end with needle nose pliers to seal while still hot.  Zip tie where the wires exit.

All of the necessary system wires and connectors are accessible under the right pocket above the radiator (in models prior to '06) so you will need to remove the pocket (see shop manual).  One needs merely to unscrew the tabbed screws shown in FIGURE FOUR and pull the entire wiring assembly into the opening of  the pocket as shown in FIGURE THREE.

Apply a generous amount of bulb grease to your probes and insert them into the proper connectors as illustrated in FIGURE THREE.  Zip tie them securely to the wire into which they are inserted.  To test, you can run your bike on the center stand in gear to see if it all works.  Take the PROPER SAFETY PRECAUTIONS WHEN DOING THIS!  But, since we only remove the pocket and not the shelter, we can test ride it easily (recommended).
If it all works, you know what to do next!


NOTE: on the '09 for sure and possibly any model after '06, the PINK  wire is NOT ACCESSIBLE under the pocket.  It is only accessible from the left handlebar to the green connector at the steering stem.  It will be necessary to run a line to the right pocket from there.  The other wires (GREEN/YELLOW, BLUE/BLACK/ AND GRAY) are under the pocket in the large connectors.


I have used the simplest mod described above on my '02 and on my '06 with good results. If you have the brake on before you set the signal to on, the wiper on the fork will not cancel, but the button will and once the brake is released, the timeout as per speed will as well.

DO THIS MORE COMPLEX MOD ONLY IF.. you are having a problem with your signals not canceling after a turn.... (this should only be a problem if you pulled the brake on before the signals or left the brake on after the turn) you can use this modified drawing using two relays which will only restart the countdown if both the brake and the signals are on.

This one is really
cool or hot depending
on the temperature outside
By Chet Walters
Based on an idea by
KJ5IX referenced by dusty74
Click for Chet's Wing Pages

Click any picture to enlarge - close window when done viewing.


8" of 22 gauge wire

Quick connect

electrical tape


Bulb Grease

5 mm allen


soldering iron

I first saw this mod on the GL1800 Riders Tech board and thought it would be a nice addition to the GL1800.  It was posted by dusty74. This mod is recommended unless you have something else that works with your signal cancel button (like a garage door opener).  But, in all honesty, it should work just fine with the garage door hickey too as long as you're not under the door!.  Anyway, all we do is use the signal cancel to "push" the DISP meter panel button.  It's lots easier to just thumb press the signal cancel because you don't have to take your hand off the bars. Besides, my GPS is in the way, too. If you press once, the display will show the ambient temperature.  If, while the temperature is displayed you press it again, you will be greeted with what your rear shock setting is (0-25).  The usefulness of the temp display is just candy, but the display of the shock setting with a left thumb press is really cool too!
This is really simple. Take off your meter panel. In the harness coming down under your left handlebar from the switches, bust out the LIGHT GREEN/WHITE wire.  Solder a lead to the LIGHT GREEN/WHITE about eight inches long.  Tape up really well leaving the lead coming out as shown.  Put a female quick connect on the end of it.  Next, remove the meter button plug from the ignition tower and locate the BLUE/YELLOW wire there.  Solder a lead onto that BLUE/YELLOW wire about 4" long, or instead of solder you can use the EZ-Splice method described in this picture >CLICK<.  Put a male connector onto the end of that lead.  Connect your wires to one another with the connects and turn on the bike.  Press the signal cancel button with your thumb. You should see your display show the temp.  While the temp is showing, press again to change it to the shock setting screen.  If that all works, you're almost done.  Make sure you route your new little wire so that there is enough play in it that it won't bind when you turn the bars side to side.  Route it so it's not stretched and does not interfere with anything else.  Meter panel back on and ride! How warm is it today?


Fix that switch! Hundreds to replace, free to fix!
Posted by Tim (South Jersey) on 12 AUG 2010

The cost of a replacement assembly is over $200 dollars plus the installation costs in either time or money, which I am un-willing to pay for just a 10 cent spring. I did take the whole switch assembly apart to see what the spring looked's a little smaller than a ball point pen spring in both length and diameter.

Tools and parts used:

  • #2 Phillips screwdriver (ALL SCREWS NO MATTER HOW SMALL THEY LOOK!)
  • Small needle nose pliers (for obvious reasons)
  • Small pair of wire cutters
  • White silicone grease (for obvious reasons)
  • One Bic Clic ball point pen (for the new spring)
  • Drill bit slighly larger than the new spring, not too large! (I used a 0.182 in wire guage drill bit)


**Important** **CAUTION**
Do this repair procedure at your own risk and peril. The author assumes no liability for the use of this fix by anyone else. This procedure just documents the steps I used to correct the problem I had with my bike. (I think I've worked around lawyers a bit too long).

Read the following section all the way through before you start:

  • Remove the grip (to allow the housing to clear it)
  • Take the housing apart
  • Carefully gain access to the lower half (there are very small wires used in the housing, caution must be used to ensure nothing get broken)
  • Remove the screws that hold the plate with the switch knob arm
  • Now remove the single screw that actually holds the turn signal switch in place.
  • Carefully remove the switch. There are two little metal balls, do not lose them.
  • Remove the broken spring and discard
  • Remove the new spring from the pen
  • **IMPORTANT** READ and UNDERSTAND NEXT STEPS BEFORE EXECUTING IT!! Using a drill bit slightly larger than the new spring,
  • Only using finger strength bit in hand, open up the whole in the white nylon where the original spring went. This only removes a very little nylon to do this.  Don't go in too far, or the detent ball (larger of the two balls) will never stay in place. Go in just enough to allow the new spring to slide in. DO NOT USE  DRILL, JUST THE BIT!
    Clean away any nylon debris
  • Dry fit the spring, it should just slide in with minimal effort
  • The spring is too long as is, so cut about a quarter of the length off using the wire cutters
  • Place a little silicone grease on the end of the spring and place the larger ball on the end with the compressed coils
  • Carefully slide the ball and spring into the newly widened hole.
  • Carefully re-install the little ball between the copper contact and the top of the white nylon
  • Carefully slide the copper contact behind the spring and reinstall the switch assembly in the base
  • Reinstall the screw that holds the copper contact and back of switch in place.
  • Using the pliers, gently ease the copper contact that holds the little ball in place up very slightly. This allows the new larger spring to pass underneath freely when the arm is pushed in to cancel and the spring is pushing the arm back out.
  • Apply fresh silicone grease to all of the moving parts (it's obvious)
  • Re-assemble the rest of the components of the switch
  • Turn the bike on and check switch functionality (all switches)
  • Reinstall housing onto the handle bar
  • Reinstall the grip and grip end

Anyway, I accomplished this on my 2001 Goldwing a few nights ago. It took me about an hour once I saw what the original spring mechanism looked like. The fix is working just fine for me. Much better than paying hundreds of dollars for a whole new switch assembly.

Plus if it ever fails again, all I'll need is my bike tool kit, which now has a Bic Clic pen in it for good luck.

For a basic understanding of how relays work, click here.

Minimum bulk - EZ to install - EZ to reverse

*Click here for a background audio reading of this section.
*Click here for an audio reading of this section.
Since this method will be used throughout and there will be more additions to this page as time goes on, the description of the method used to connect the wires is right here up front! I don't like Scotch locks for wire splice in. Even LeverLocks which are very large (often too large for tight spaces), require you cut a wire or two. BOTH are bulky, often loosen over time and corrode. Soldering is best, but that is sometimes very difficult if not impossible. I often use the "tuck and roll" method (shown at right) which works good on smaller connectors with light gauge wires, but that's sometimes not practical with these tight mini connectors. Using, in the order of ease of use and durability: a safety pin leg (good for waterproof connectors), a leg from a diode/resistor, 1 inch length of 20-22 gauge bell wire (solid copper not strands) or a ceiling tile staple, one can make a "probe" that will slip into a connector from behind on the plug as shown. Grab a proper size gauge diode or safety pin and cut off a leg leaving enough to re-use the diode. Solder your lead onto one leg end leaving about 1/2" or more of a leg free. Put on some heat shrink and lube it good with bulb grease and insert tightly into the back of the plug so that it makes good contact with the connector of the needed wire. After "smoke" testing, zip tie or tape it to the existing wire and zip tie to the harness too for good strain relief. (if doing a waterproof connector, you can add a dollop of hot glue or bulb grease before tying off). This way, if you ever need to disconnect that which you have connected, simply cut the zip ties and "unplug" your piggy back EZ Splice. Works great and it's easy. One helpful thing here is to use a "Helping Hand" soldering stand available at Radio Shack to help make a neat solder of the wire to the leg/pin. I've been using this method for 20 years in inclement weather of all sorts including snow, salt and mud (on my quads) and have never lost a connection. To the purist. A connector is a device which slides one metal "blade" over another metal "blade" to make a connection. We are merely doing exactly the same thing. There are commercial versions of this here: *click me*

Help keep this website alive. Donate what you will ... Thanks

The information on these pages is accurate to the best of the author's knowledge. The author can assume no responsibility for the use or misuse of this information by the reader. The reader is expected to secure any other information needed from Service Manuals or other sources. It is up to the reader to determine his/her ability to make any modifications noted. If the reader does not feel qualified he/she should enlist professional help.