|After trying many combinations of controllers, I finally settled on using the DUAL REMOTE from warm&safe. The receiver is about the size of a pack of Dentine and there is only one wire from me to the bike for power. When in use, I have the knob unit attached with Velcro to the meter panel which makes it easy to tether to the key so it won't ever fly off. On my Spyder I use rubber bands to attach it to the key flap for the gas cap. The receiver is in the inside pocket of my Gerbings jacket and barely noticeable. When I use my pants, they plug into the second power out of the receiver through the waistband. Click pic for larger view.|
I really wanted a pair of heated pants to go with my antique Gerbing Jacket Liner. But I didn't want to pay over $200 for pants that only heated the thigh region. I wanted full coverage with extra heat at the hip and knee. This is my $36 solution. These pants consume about 44 watts at 12v drawing around 3.5 amps. At 14 volts on your bike from the alternator, you should get 60+ watts and 4.5 amps. They need a shell which can be just the windproof pants from your rain suit, Walmart insulated ski/snow pants or insulated ski/snow pants from Amazon or your own windproof riding pants.
|WHAT YOU NEED
-30 feet 30 gauge teflon coated wire
-large needle with eye to fit wire
-2 pair 100% cotton waffle long johns
-20" coax pigtail or SAE
these coax are not the same size
as the CCTV coax for heated grips!
-small ¼ " eyelets
-stuff to sew cuffs (machine?)
-PWM controller for at least 5A
or an RF LED dimmer/controller
-DUAL REMOTE from warm&safe
-Coax plug male pigtail
-Coax jack female pigtail
these coax are not the same size
as the CCTV coax for heated grips!
|PREPARE YOUR PIGTAILS AS NEEDED TO MATCH YOUR
Turn one pair of long johns (MUST BE 100% COTTON OR IT MIGHT MELT!) inside out. With the bulk of the wire left showing (it will be on the inside when done) "sew" the wire through the pants making sure that the wire will be where you need the heat. On my GL1800 that is from about 10 o'clock inside to about 7 o'clock outside with extra loops at the knees where my outer pants will be flattened. I did a couple extra loops at my hip joints too. You can modify the pattern shown in the title image, but I found the zig zag shown to work the best for comfort.
Once you are satisfied with the wiring, turn the pants right side out. Don your other pair of non-wired pants then carefully pull your wired outer pants over them. Have a helper pin the cuffs and the waistband in place. Remove both pair as a unit and install one ¼" eyelet in the outer layer (the pants with the wire). I used two small pieces of light cardboard on the front and back of the eyelet as shown. Insert your pigtail heavy wire through the eyelet and tie it in a knot leaving enough to work with. Solder to the pigtail one end of your 30awg to the plus (+) of 16awg and the other end of your 30awg to the negative (-) of 16awg then heat shrink to keep them separate from each other.
|TEST YOUR PANTS!
Before finalizing, test! Once you finish sewing up, going back for adjustments will be difficult. With a sewing machine if available, sew your cuffs and waistband using a zig zag stretch elastic stitch making the pants firmly attached to one another.
For control, get a Pulse Width Modulating "fan" control. Search eBay for: "12v 10A Pulse Width". Make sure you get one that can handle at least 10 amps. I was good to go because my antique Gerbing jacket liner had an adequate 10A PWM so I just tied these pants in parallel with the jacket which had a plug waiting to use right there in the jacket. For separate temp control, I use a remote from Warm & Safe.
Can-Am Spyder F3-T
|YOU NEED TO POWER AND CONTROL
For power, I have a power outlet from warm n safe at the switch panel which fits nicely in the locations shown. The W&S outlet is capped and it is always hot through a 15a fuse so I can use it to power my air pump and also to easily plug in my battery trickle charger. To the right, I have a controller which lets me adjust the amount of heat this clothing puts out. To obtain one, just search eBay for a 10 amp pulse width modulator. You can obtain one of these remote controlled RF LED dimmer/controller for use with any heated circuit that draws less than 6 amps if you have already a controller for your heated jacket. That RF controller gets quite warm if working more than 5 amps and I cannot attest to its longevity. If you build the pants on this page it works great and has an infinite setting capability. It can easily be added inline between the plug and the garment and I recommend a heat sink using two pennies and some heat shrink over the chip area. For connection, you can use the coax pigtail but be sure to use shrink tube for insulation.
|Click any PIC below for a larger view|
|WHAT YOU NEED
Walmart felt squares in crafts. buy 4 (83¢) OR.. 100% Cotton Fabric of your choice (shown below).
The CCTV coax are NOT the same size as the coax for the heated pants!
If desired a power CCTV coax power splitter. CCTV coax power pigtails male & female.
Universal heating coils.
LED strobe controller or "12v 10A Pulse Width".
1" sew-on Velcro strips hook and loop.*
a sewing machine
some wire at least 24 gauge.
Bike or ATV 12v Power source (key off/on)
Ski gloves which are insulated on the back but less so in the palm
||MAKE YOUR POCKETS!
If you like larger grips, you could just glue
your coils to your grips and slip the
Grip Puppies over the coils skipping the sewing. Note that this will
make your installation more or less permanent at the grips because you
will destroy the coils in order to get it off again. Not too big a deal,
just $5 to $7 bucks.
Measure the long edge of your coils and ensure the pockets will be long enough to accommodate them. You could measure your grip length but it's not that important. Just make sure your coils will fit inside the pockets after the seams are made as shown at left. I sewed using white thread for illustration purposes. Your pockets should have one end folded with no seam and have about ½ inch on the open side (not yet sewn). This is to allow for sewing along the length just a bit beyond the end of your coils. Sew then a seam along the open end as near to the coils as you can. Ensure they are tight inside the pockets to keep them from drifting.
*No sticky back. Wider Velcro helps if your grips are narrow & you need to sew before you fold.
Your coil power wires will exit the open end of your pocket. I put a dab of epoxy glue between the felt where the power wire exits. After it dried, I used a needle to thread one double loop of dental floss and knotted the open ends very tightly for strain relief. Once you have that finalized and have made sure the heaters fit your grips, SEW IT TWO MORE TIMES along the seams and Velcro. Note that you should not sew through the coils if you have 4 sets of Velcro for narrow grips but do sew the ends of the pocket's Velcro. You can see the way the final pocket will look with the Velcro in place in the pictures. Just click one to see a larger view.
DO THE WIRING!
I left the temporary coax ends in place before I cut and soldered all the connections (for you to see and me to test). The source for the LED control (or PWM) will be put on the "USER" circuit of my Can-Am Spyder so that it will not be 12v hot when the bike is not running.
Don't hook directly to your battery - make sure this apparatus shuts off with the key.
At the end of that power wire have a MALE coax ready for the FEMALE of the strobe/heat control. Add some wire to get this up to your bars with a FEMALE coax ready to accept the MALE regulated end of the control. Put a MALE on the other end of that extension cord which will go into your CCTV or homemade splitter. Your wires coming from your heater coils should have a FEMALE coax on them to mate with the MALE ends of the splitter. You could just solder all your wiring and be done with it, but I did it this way for two reasons: This will be a seasonal setup. During the season I can release the Velcro on the coils and just pull them off if it's warm and I don't need heat. Once the season is done, I can remove the splitter as well making my installation more or less invisible for the "off" season. The power feed from the LED heat/strobe controller can remain in place so I won't need to re-fish it from under the body when the needy season approaches. The heat controller is left with the coax ends in case it becomes
For control I use just the red power and the 6 buttons on the top of the remote. Hit the RED power then the GREEN light. Use the plus and minus buttons to get infinite control but I have found using just the 100%, 50% and 25% buttons will suit all my needs. Most of these inexpensive coils put out good heat. By using a PDA stylus attached to my glove, I can work the Garmin. A pair of Ski gloves which are insulated on the back but less so in the palm (designed for pole gripping) work the best. I have found that some light gloves work for most mid-temp rides.
For gloved hands, I do have a mounted "stylus" on my bars that serves as a stylus for the Garmin and as a pen for making quick notes on paper if need be. It is attached to the bars with a spring loaded key "chain" reel so it won't get lost and there is a neodymium magnet epoxied to it so it rests handily on my Ham bracket. The pen point is retracted for use as a stylus for the Garmin & extended for writing on paper.
Click a picture to see larger...
|I made this addition to my 1996 Gerbings
jacket liner. It's
an element from an old car seat heater kit which was unused.
I added it to the inside of the back with spray adhesive and
tied it into the internal wiring. Perfect fit and good match
for heat! I'm sure you know about the backdraft problem
on the wing. Here is a solution!
EZ SPLICE-IN PIGGY BACK METHOD
Minimum bulk - EZ to install - EZ to reverse
*Click here for a background audio reading of this section.
*Click here for an audio reading of this section.
Since this method will be used throughout and there will be more additions to this page as time goes on, the description of the method used to connect the wires is right here up front! I don't like Scotch locks for wire splice in. Even LeverLocks , which are very large (often too large for tight spaces), require you cut a wire or two. BOTH are bulky, often loosen over time and corrode. Soldering is best, but that is sometimes very difficult if not impossible. I often use the "tuck and roll" method (shown at right) which works good on smaller connectors with light gauge wires, but that's sometimes not practical with these tight mini connectors. Using, in the order of ease of use and durability: best is a safety pin leg (good for waterproof connectors like these), a leg from a diode/resistor, 1 inch length of 20-22 gauge bell wire (solid copper not strands) or a ceiling tile staple, one can make a "probe" that will slip into a connector from behind on the plug as shown. Grab a proper size gauge diode or safety pin and cut off a leg leaving enough to re-use the diode. Solder your lead onto one leg end leaving about 1/2" or more of a leg free. Put on some heat shrink and lube it good with bulb grease and insert tightly into the back of the plug so that it makes good contact with the connector of the needed wire. After "smoke" testing, zip tie or tape it to the existing wire and zip tie to the harness too for good strain relief. (if doing a waterproof connector, you can add a dollop of hot glue or bulb grease before tying off). This way, if you ever need to disconnect that which you have connected, simply cut the zip ties and "unplug" your piggy back EZ Splice. Works great and it's easy. One helpful thing here is to use a "Helping Hand" soldering stand available at Radio Shack to help make a neat solder of the wire to the leg/pin. I've been using this method for 20 years in inclement weather of all sorts including snow, salt and mud (on my quads) and have never lost a connection. To the purist. A connector is a device which slides one metal "blade" over another metal "blade" to make a connection. We are merely doing exactly the same thing. There are commercial versions of this here: *click me*
|The information on these pages is accurate to the best of the author's knowledge. The author can assume no responsibility for the use or misuse of this information by the reader. The reader is expected to secure any other information needed from Service Manuals or other sources. It is up to the reader to determine his/her ability to make any modifications noted. If the reader does not feel qualified he/she should enlist professional help.|