The information on this page is specific to my 2016 F3T. Different years and different models of the F3 will, of course, be different. |
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EZ SPLICE-IN PIGGY BACK METHOD Minimum bulk - EZ to install - EZ to reverse *Click here for a background audio reading of this section. *Click here for an audio reading of this section. Since this method will be used throughout and there will be more additions to this page as time goes on, the description of the method used to connect the wires is right here up front! I don't like Scotch locks for wire splice in. Even LeverLocks , which are very large (often too large for tight spaces), require you cut a wire or two. BOTH are bulky, often ![]() ![]() |
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![]() ![]() RAM stuff is just too bulky. More suited for mounts on a dually truck! I am a minimalist so I went my own route. I bought a Garmin Nüvi 57 LM for $60 on eBay. I did utilize RAM's Garmin Nüvi 57LM cradle ![]() |
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![]() The F3-T has a radio. Included in the OEM wiring is a male 1/8" jack (like earbuds) to place into a 1/8" audio female plug. When the radio gets a ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() To activate it the first time, it may be necessary to switch your input to NAV and cause the GPS to sound. After that, it will work to mute any audio source (USB, line in, FM) for the GPS prompts. Click the pics for larger labeled images. The 57LMTraffic Nüvi sends a click about 2 seconds past prompt, but the 57LM Nüvi does not which is more pleasing. [hint] the GPS input is a full compliment audio capable of playing a full audio source such as a cell phone or mp3 player*. If you have a cell phone that reads your text messages to you, use this input to mute the stereo and play your message as if it was a GPS prompt. This is an IDEAL way to use a music capable ZUMO! Set the input to NAV for full time audio using this input for the output of the ZUMO. * If you have a model that does not provide an audio in for prompts, Kennedy has an interface that will do it for you. To load CUSTOM ROUTES into the Nüvi 57, create them (Base Camp etc) then copy them to the Garmin/gpx folder on the SD Card and reboot your unit. It will automatically (but very slowly so have patience) load them and you can find them under the "Trip Planner" app on the GPS! Easy Peasy! |
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![]() Or how I beat the CANbus *Click here for a background audio reading of this section. *Click here for an audio reading of this section. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() I replaced the OEM signal bulbs with an LED 1156 that has a resistor built in so the CANBUS doesn't get mad. It's about 50% brighter, but that is near impossible to photo. Works on my system and did not result in a hyper flash. YMMV of course. See the video at left or below. NOTE: All the above is BEFORE I discovered that there was a way to "teach" the CANBUS how to tolerate added lights. If you have a pre-2018 model, check the video below in the (PINK) beat the CANBUS another way article. It works and I have eliminated the relays and plugged directly into the T3 surface mounts from the YELLOW wire on the bulb side of the harnesses on each side. The above method is for those who may be able to use it on later models of the F3. |
LED 1156 Bulb installed on left. |
![]() ![]() The video at left shows my T3 signals, T3 strobe/flashing brake light, Custom Dynamics Knight Riderz 21 LED top light bar ( ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() The brake Feniex T3 Perimeter Mount LED (RED) strobes quickly once using a solid state 8 AMP brake light flasher module from Amazon which is barely the size of a quarter. It strobes quickly then goes to solid but..... because I have the T3 set to flash every three seconds the two units combined cause the T3 to strobe quickly ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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![]() The The video at the right shows my cubby vent signals which act as both a brighter indicator for the ryder as well as a visual signal to the public as side signals. This is accomplished using set of 4" amber LED strips from eBay. Installation is straightforward. Attach the strips to the cubby top along the outer edge and run the RED wire to the signal +12v (left is ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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![]() The video at the right shows my eBay $22 replacement for my gone bad $180 BuRP signature light. I fought with BuRP for two years and they would not replace the defective LED under Warranty. Installation for my version is simple. One can power these lights with the OEM signature light circuit under the frunk liner and wire them up just like the signature light to the OEM wires. The only difference being that they must also get wired using their respective ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() There are mounted 2 Custom Dynamics Knight Riderz 11 LED side by side light bars ( ![]() ![]() ![]() |
![]() ![]() | BEAT THE CANBUS ANOTHER WAY ON PRE 2018 ... The video at the right shows how one can reset the the CANBUS and defeat the HyperFlash and other problems when one adds extra lights and accessories to the pre-2018 Can Am. Through all additions of signals and also the addition of my extra horns, I had to reset my ICU to be aware of the changes. For the signals, I would get hyperflash (fast blinking) and for my horns, if I beeped the horn, my audio system would reset and stop playing! The way to do this is to (a)start your bike* (b) Press and hold the hazard switch for around 30 seconds or, as shown in the video, until your dash lights flash once (c) release the button (d) turn off the hazards then quickly put on the offending signal (or beep the horn) then switch off the bike quickly once the task has been performed. By some reports, this doesn't work on 2018 & later models. By other accounts it does work on them. Also shown in Lamonster's video on hyperflash shown ->here.< * sometimes necessary to start it |
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![]() *Click here for a background audio reading of this section. *Click here for an audio reading of this section. ![]() The necessary wiring diagram is shown below for just adding horns or at the left using a standard Bosch auto relay, a time delay relay and an alternating strobe module for strobes. Because the OEM horn wire is always hot, the horn button completes the ground at the horn. We use that ![]() ![]() ![]() ^^^^^^^^^^ For just adding horns |
![]() I bought and love an Ultimate Seat. In its slot I installed a Big Bike Parts 41-168A backrest anchored with screws as shown. I only used three parts as shown to mount it. I chose this backrest because it's low and easier to get a leg over than the taller ones. I have an Airhawk Cushion from 1998 which supplements on long rides (yes, it's 20 years old and still working great).. I use the method of running with the Airhawk for a coupla hours and then running without it for a coupla hours. I also run a full Merino sheep skin rug from New Zealand to ameliorate the seat's heat in the summer. I run both at the same time sometimes. To hold the Merino I simply sewed on paracord with monkey's fist knots to the back corners and capture them in the saddle bag lids outside of the gasket when I close them. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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What you will need obtained at ACE
hardware or Home Depot: 2 4" (75mm) M10 1.50 Stainless bolts 4 m10 1.50 nuts 2 3/8"ID x 3/4"OD x 3/4"long steel bushings Hillman #883499 2 BMX bike rear stunt pegs (Walmart has good ones for $10) Cost about $20 + pegs |
![]() | Do one side
at a time.
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() CAUTION! RIDING WITH YOUR RIGHT FOOT RESTED ON THE THIRD PEG WILL INCREASE YOUR BRAKING REACTION TIME CONSIDERABLY. WE SUGGEST MOVING YOUR RIGHT FOOT FROM THE THIRD PEG TO THE BRAKE PEDAL WHILE AT A STOP MANY MANY MANY TIMES SO YOU HAVE "MUSCLE MEMORY" OF THE MOTION NEEDED TO BRAKE EFFECTIVELY! |
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() NOTE:I had a newer model F3 which meant I had "extra" channel stiffener sleeves/bolts shown above. The steps (in red) below may not be necessary if you have an older model with no pins. The instructions for the F3-T that came with my bar, though much better than most others, got a C+ grade. Why? Totally missing were: (a) remove the rain guard completely - four T25 and a Phillips body clip; (b) remove a SECOND 10mm bolt and nut with a sleeve each side in the frame as well as the one that holds the block ; (c) remove the T27 from the under frunk shield and move it out of the way with a bungee. The installation was, with those exceptions, well described. Because you need to remove both the 10mm bolts, the frame member will likely slip and need re-aligned with the frame channel (scratch-all does work but you have to yank a bit on the orange arms so make sure you are sturdy with your jack). You WILL NOT get that bar out or in on a jack with less than a 24" lift with those SECOND bolts & sleeves in place. ![]() Shown at left a way to lift the front end to help the job along. It was a bit of a sweaty chore to get it installed because of the extra steps which were not in the dox I had before I started. I read the instructions and decided to do it myself because I'm kinda good with a wrench. However, had those steps been included (which they are included now), I might have had a helper or got it done at the dealer (I hate doing that). At the finish, it was a toss up that I made the right choice (not as young as I used to be). Pics show the extra steps left out of the old but included in the new instructions that come with the bar. They get an A- from me now. Now the meat: PROs Wheel bounce is greatly diminished. Wind resistance is at least doubled. Cornering is so much improved that I no longer need to do the monkey trick quite so much to ride the twisties. (see this post >CLICK ME<) The start up from a traffic light turn (say turn left once the light changes) is miraculous! Shazam! Just GO! Drifting is greatly diminished on uneven, bumpy Ohio roads. Yaw on crowned roads is greatly reduced and wandering is nearly gone (I haven't aligned her yet). Feels like it's on rails. Shyza! CONs HUH? |
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![]() FENDER MOUNTED HIGH VISIBILITY WITH ROAD LEVEL BEAMS USING 2.5" BLUE HALO LED PROJECTOR LIGHTS Get these LED fogs here from amazon or here from eBay. If you cannot buy at the link, make sure you buy solid white halo lenses, not the mosaic clear. These lights are great for conspicuity meaning they help others see YOU! For the fender, ![]() |
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![]() UPPER STOCK MOUNTING HIGH VISIBILITY WITH HIGH LEVEL BEAMS USING 2.5" BLUE HALO LED PROJECTOR LIGHTS ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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![]() This ol' trailer, a Pace 7' x 12', modified to fit my wyder Spyder ![]() It was necessary to mod my old Pace 7 x 12 trailer which hauled my GL1800 wings for many years. One mod that I had already made to get my wings up into it on rainy days was to use roofing shingles laid down with truss/lath screws for traction on the slippery when wet wooden ramp. These now serve the drive wheel of the F3 admirably. The old doorway was too narrow to fit the F3 front wheels & fenders. The next mod then was to remove the 3/4" door jam up to 24" from the bottom with a cut off wheel. I then laid down some paneling batten as a guide that was visible on the floor from the saddle of my F3 to keep the wheels aligned inside and spaced so that they would be centered preventing a scrape of the tires/fenders on the sides. I have several loops on the floor through which to run belts to tie the old girl down. These combined with the F3 parking brake keep her settled & behaved until we get to our destination. ![]() I have modified my center hi running lights so they work like a high mounted brake light by wiring the LEDs with a resistor and diodes as shown >CLICK<. |
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![]() ![]() *Click here for an audio reading of this section.I have employed a new method to tie her down using an E-track strip and a single 2" heavy ratchet strap. However, what seems easy is knot! For the F3-T, getting a single strap over the rear tire for anchoring with E-track is a challenge. There are two methods. Remove the mud guard (which is a chore in itself***) and reach over the top of the tire to drop the 2" E-track strap down in front of it. Works great just like what the RT guys can do. Then re-install the mudguard once you untie her at your destination (another REAL chore in itself but see *** below). ![]() With the mudguard on, it is impossible to get that strap over the tire and keep it centered. At your camping/trailer/hardware store, find the 32" heavy duty "pipe cleaner" Gear Tie shown. Fold it in half then thread it through the wheel spokes inside the belt pulley and bend the ends together in a hook pattern. Loop the 2" E-track strap over it & push it up as far as you can reach on each side of the fender, then roll the bike forward about 28 inches. Reach between the muffler and the rear side cover and flip the strap toward the front where you can grab it with a telescoping magnet and pull it through. Hook it into your E-track and move the bike back to where you need it for weight distribution. Unset that brass then re-set it just in front of the tire. Using another belt's brass, thread the working strap through the slot and then clip that brass just behind the tire. One cannot use an E-track idler because it's too high so we make an idler out of the second strap (which will work well with a plain F3 rear fender). Go through the ratchet as normal and crank it tight. To make a bit more firm, let some air out of the tire and crank it tight. Put a little of the air back. Once you unload, inflate to your normal pressure. We also keep that extra strap for use on another setup if need be. Harbor Freight has all the E-track parts you need and any camping store has the 32' Gear Ties. In addition to the single strap, I have replaced the lower front shock bolts with M10 x 55 stainless eye bolts for tow or tie. They will accept soft ties or hooks for tow to pull up on a flatbed or for tie downs if need be. I got them on eBay for cheep then cut them to size with a cut off wheel and used the OEM M10 nuts for a solid mount. Updated! To secure the bike from rolling forward and aft because braking exerts more force on trailer loads than does acceleration, one must secure the bike from both directions. This bike is heavy and it will move! ![]() ![]() One other modification I made for my trailer was shortening the crank strap so my front wheels could make a bit more room at the man-door. I cut the belt from the original e-track hickey and re-sewed it using normal thread and a zig-zag stitch on a regular sewing machine (same machine I used for my heated grips). On the crank part, I removed the bolt so I could sew close to the end of the belt and then returned the bolt like it was attached originally. See the pic below... ![]() *** Having been completely frustrated (another BuRP engineer fuvx up) by trying to re-install the mudguard to its berth, and because in so trying I broke off two of the pins, I re-engineered the set up using some brains and real world experience (unlike the BuRP guys which have neither). I used some dykes and cut off all the pins. I ![]() ![]() ![]() |
*And if you ask "Why
don't you just leave the mudguard off?" Here are two pics of a ride I
took with it off and merely encountered a single 3" stream of dirty water
coming off a driveway. All the speckles (pic1
Pic2) are from just that single 3" stream. I
had some on my jacket back and some on my helmet. Imagine if I had
encountered dirty construction water for miles! No thanks. And a side
note, there is a gasket in the fender and and drain holes in the
mudguard. |
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First of all, this 11.5 inch (280mm) Moparty extender arrived on Monday in one day from Amazon. I installed it and went ![]() ![]() I have an F4 tall with their extra hand wings and Slingshot side extenders from Baker to which I added extensions of my own. I have an old football neck injury that requires me to have good air control without a full coverage helmet which is too heavy for me to wear. I've always wished that the F4 was bigger like on my GL1800*. When it's cold, my eyes, glasses with a rattling insert & my sinuses get cold. The xcreen clone gave me the finishing touch by ending that problem. Would I recommend the xcreen or this $40 Moparty clone 11.5 inch (280mm)? YES! As always, YMMV! Note that adding protection with a large shield will cause a backdraft from behind as air is sucked into the vacuum behind the shield. Some solutions to that problem can be found on my ![]() ![]() |
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![]() ![]() @ LEFT: Desperately hating Torx. I am on a mission to eliminate all Torx (star) screws on my F3. I am using m5 x .8 x 20mm stainless black oxide pan head phillips screws. I got them on Amazon but you might be able to find them elsewhere. I bought 50 of them for $13 on Amazon. Considering that each of the OEM Torx are $4 each and just one side needs four it's a bargain. I also use these on my quad as well. @ RIGHT: Finding a protected place to mount my GoPro 7 Black, I settled on using the plastic slide mount from the packaging attached to my dash visor using Command Adhesive strips which don't permanently mar the finish and allows me to bridge the peak on the visor top while keeping the camera centered. Applied some flat black PlastiDip to the glossy glove box lid to keep reflections on the shield to a minimum. ![]() For power for my XM in the glove box, my GoPro on the dash and whatever else I may need power for above the dash, I have mounted a set of cigarette lighter sockets under the left service panel. From those I can put the business ends of the power supplies up to the units by snaking under the dash up through the vents on either side of the glove box. If I'm not using them at this time, I merely loop them over the ribs of the vent. Do zip tie the lighter parts together under the service cover or they may vibrate apart. |
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Bought a
36mm combination wrench for belt adjustments and
tensioning from Menard's. I cut it in half with an angle grinder and cut off wheel to use it on both the axle bolt (box end) and the axel nut (open end) without pulling the split pin. Axle nut torque is 160lbs. Got a $9
36mm socket off Amazon for both the axle and oil filter cap
which makes getting the oil cap off a breeze! Used a
Krikit 2 for checking the belt tension which should be between
160 and 190 by that gauge with the wheel OFF the ground following
instructions
in this video. If you can't get your dealer to install that
Kumho or Toyo tire (they normally won't unless it's a Kenda
purchased from them) then you will need to remove your wheel and
sprocket taking in your tire with you to an independent power sport
shop. I got mine mounted at
Cycle
Specialties in Taylors SC for $40 in 30 minutes while I waited.
Your local shop might be able to remove it and do it all, call them
and ask. Rear wheel removal and strip is shown
in this video. Related, if you need to check your rear brake pads for wear on a bagger (F3t or ltd) get a selfie stick and orient your camera just right and you can get a pic of both pads on the rear wheel. Why is this important? Because they often don't wear evenly and getting the outer pad too thin makes getting the screw in piston to engage the cylinder threads can be seriously difficult. |
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![]() Instead of just adding bar end weights, I tried to make the balance useful by installing a s ![]() |
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Bungee loops for tie downs & RACK ![]() ![]() |
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![]() My shock loses about 5 pounds a week air. I grew tired of pulling the seat to check the pressure with a tire gauge, plus the fact that the air bag is so small, using a gauge loses pounds by the action itself. . I got a 6"x4"x2" tiny tire pump on eBay ($22) and dropped a female CCTV pigtail into a 5/8" hole that I drilled in the back of the bag for power. I got some tire valve braided 12" extenders for the air ($12 a pair). I then threaded the valve extensions joined end to end through the frame and down into the hole with the power wire and screwed the pump onto it. Note that road grime can enter your bag through the hole unless you use silicone to fill the hole essentially making a "grommet" to seal it. Now all I need to do is open the bag and check the still connected pump's gauge. If it needs air, I plug the pump into the +12v and flip the switch. If I need the pump to actually fill something else, it's easy enough to disconnect it and free it up for the other job. The pump comes with an 8ft power cord with a cig lighter plug and I have made a pigtail with two of those (for fone charging) and another female CCTV for the pump. Win! Win! WIN! |
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Construction of a laser alignment tool is relatively simple and inexpensive. For mine I used bar of aluminum 6" x 3" x 0.25" 6062 aluminum bar off Amazon but you can use a chunk of wood to achieve the same result. I already had the Laser Gun Sight for use on my XD-40 SubCompact but you could easily use a simple cat toy laser pointer so long as you align it perfectly along the center and attach it to your "brick" firmly. Make sure it has a slide switch to keep it on, not a push button that you need to hold. For leveling, any line level can work, but I chose to use the one that sells at Walmart for $3 because it affords two points at which to align your tool with your rim. To attach it to the aluminum, I used Loctite Power Grab construction adhesive which you can use to attach your cat toy as well. I screwed the Picatinny rail piece to the aluminum along the center line to mount the gun sight that I already owned (if you use screws make sure they to not protrude out the back of your "brick"). Center the laser and the level and you are good to go! Check the You Tube video to see how it all works once you make it. |
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![]() Toyo Proxes T 185/55-15 up front - I'm in love! These Toyo Proxes T 185/55-15 tires go where you point them. Sounds odd, right? Well, compared to the Krappy Kendas this bike ships with, it isn't odd. The Kendas, with their checkerboard tread pattern, would go everywhere, especially when you needed to brake quickly. If you got on a road that had a little character, they wandered badly. They would follow every dip, patch and hole they could find. Not the Toyo. Rock steady unless you get on a really really bad road. They are fat. I had to shim my fenders toward the bike some (thanks Mike!). On the right side I needed two stacked 3/8" lock washers just putting the shim on the front brace not the back and it moved the fender in about .20". On the left, one 3/8" lock washer for .10" up front did the job. The tread pattern is a good match for my Kumho ECSTA AST 225/50R15 on the back. These Toyo tires roar in the turns. But while they roar, they stick to the road like glue. Now, I don't want you to think these tires upset the nanny because they DON'T! I have yet to have the nanny interrupt my fun with the Kendas or these Toyo tires. They seriously make this bike more stable and much more fun! For example: On State Park Road there is a 60° left sharp curve and halfway through that turn for some reason there is an off camber dip in the road (off camber meaning the road changes from banking for a left that helps make the turn into an opposite bank that hinders it creating a nightmare). With the Kendas, that change in bank made the road try to pitch me into the right hand ditch. With the Toyos, no problem. They just get a bit louder and navigate the turn just fine and faster than I ever could with the Kendas. I barely notice the hazard. I've experimented with pressures from 18# to 22#. I run 20# right now and have settled on that being the proper pressure. 20 PSI will do it. No slop and no feeling every pebble in the road. Just sweet sweet traction. Don't hesitate getting these tires. The guy that mounted them didn't have cones small enough for my new PP wheels to spin balance. I added 2.5 ounces of balancing beads in each tire using EZ Tire Beads from Amazon. Got the MC kit 2&3 ounce bags and took .5 ounces out of the the 3 oz. bag adding it to the 2 oz. bag. NO BEADS!! After experimenting with beads, THEY DON'T WORK! With the help of my good friend Denny, we broke the bead and removed all the beads. There was no need to balance the wheels & tires afterwards. They are smoooth as glass with no weights. The tires were mounted on PPA wheels at a regular tire shop. The PPA wheels shown in the pics are from Slingmods @ this address. https://www.slingmods.com/can-am-spyder-orb-series-front-rims-ppa-wheels Don't ask me how I know the following... If you have extra fender lights and wiring along the front fender pipe, make damn sure you have the wires pulled all the way toward the bike outside the fender zip tied & taped away from the tire to the max. Those little 3 conductor wires cannot take a joke. |
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I run a $70 Quansheng TG-UV2 and/or a $25 Baofeng UV-5R both purchased a few years ago. I have two of each. The radio is hung on a homemade panel mounted to my right bar with extended screws and spacers as shown at right. I put a hook Velcro piece on the mount and each radio has under the belt clip on the battery the loop Velcro mate which prevents the radio from rattling and ensures it stays in place. I use just the Rubber Duck seen at left which works well enough for bike to bike communications when the radio is mounted vertically on its bracket. The wiring diagram
for keying the headset is
shown at left (just mash the
ground of the pins together).
I built my own key
method for my
special needs boom mic. I used two very thin terminals to insert under the radio's
headset pins so they touch the GROUND on each pin. To those I soldered the red and black wires (keeping them isolated) of the cut For gloved hands, I do have a mounted "stylus" on my bars that serves as a stylus when the pen point is retracted for the Garmin and point extended as a pen for making quick notes on paper if need be. It is attached to the bars with a spring loaded key/ID card reel so it won't get lost and there is a neodymium magnet epoxied to it so it rests handily on my Ham bracket. |
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INJOY! And shout out for KD8OVH from time to time. I can be
found in NE Ohio and North or South Carolina.
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