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The information on these pages is accurate to the best of the author's knowledge. The author can assume no responsibility for the use or misuse of this information by the reader. The reader is expected to secure any other information needed from Service Manuals or other sources. It is up to the reader to determine his/her ability to make any modifications noted. If the reader does not feel qualified he/she should enlist professional help.
FOUR WAYS for FIVE BUCKS!
(or so)
By Chet Walters
This may work on any bike, these instructions are for Honda Valkyrie

The Valkyrie has no flashing four way hazard lights. When you find out just how easily and cheaply you can add this vital safety feature to your Valk, you will be doubly disappointed that Honda America neglected to include it in the package. This is a very easy mod which takes about an hour and a half, requires little skill, and costs around five dollars or so. You will be pleased with the results. To learn how you can add a signal buzzer which will buzz with the signals, but not the four ways, click here.


NEW WAYS TO ADD 4 WAYS WITH A SIGNAL BUZZER THAT WILL NOT BUZZ IF THE BRAKE LIGHT IS ON OR THE 4 WAYS ARE ON
Click the pic to print it
Say you want to add four way flashers and you also want a turn signal buzzer (see Turn Signal Buzzer for Pennies).  You don't want the buzzer to buzz when the four ways are on and you don't want the buzzer to buzz while you are sitting at a red light in a bunch of traffic making that silly embarrassing noise while our blinker blinks.  Just adapt the above circuit to your existing four ways (if you have done them already) or you want four ways and a buzzer that's silent when you don't want it making noise, just follow the above drawings.  The ORANGE and BLUE signal circuits should come from under your right side cover.  So that the buzzer will be silent with the brake light on for both the hand lever and the brake pedal, grab the GREEN/YELLOW from the harness that goes under your fender to the rear brake light.  Very simple.  The four ways will not make the buzzers buzz and putting on the brake light will kill the ground for the buzzers and they will be silent.  But, when you go on your way, they will buzz with your signal.  This has two advantages.  One, it will make cagers notice you and two, it will remind you to turn off the dern signals when you need to.  Works great!  Get any piezo and Radio Shack as loud as you need it.  This can all fit under your right side cover.

ADDING FOUR WAYS
TIME: 1.5 hours

MATERIALS
16-18 gauge wire
1 small DPDT toggle switch (Radio Shack 275-663)
2 splice-in wire connectors (blue plastic variety)
2 female quick disconnects (Radio Shack 64-3049)
1 Standard Duty Signal Flasher (Auto Zone 536/552-C)
1 in-line fuse holder with 15 amp fuse
weather resistant electrical tape
TOOLS
Phillips screw driver
soldering iron
wire cutters
wire strippers

The flasher should be the tin barrel type with two male spade connectors rated for six lamps (Auto Zone 536/552-C $1.89 or equivalent). If you haul a trailer with extra lights or have any extra lights installed in the signal flashing circuit, you may need a flasher that is rated for more than six lamps. This mod was thoroughly tested in conjunction with the stock flasher and Kisan's Signal Minder (both varieties) on the OEM turn signal circuit without mishap. If you have other than these signal flashers installed on the OEM circuit, I cannot guarantee that this will work with your setup. To make this work with the Kriss "One Shot" or "Hot Shot" modules, see notes at the end of the article.

QUICKLY FOR EXPERTS: Wire any way and anywhere you wish. Supply a constant (key on or off) fused +12V through a flasher rated for your number of signal lamps to both the LEFT (ORANGE) and RIGHT (BLUE) signal circuits when your circuit is closed (ON). When your circuit is open (OFF), the LEFT and RIGHT signal circuits must remain ISOLATED.

QUICKLY FOR MOTORHEADS: See the drawing. The DPDT switch serves to supply current to the signal circuits when on while keeping them isolated when off. You can wire this inside the headlight as well, or anywhere you can find the ORANGE and BLUE leads, but you must provide a constantly "HOT" wire that does not work with the key as the +12 constant in the drawing. Use the solid ORANGE and solid BLUE leads to access the signal circuits.
NOTE: this is a "layman's" drawing which shows only the terminals on the various parts. It is intentional that there are no electronic symbols included.

FOR THE REST OF US: Remove your pilot's seat and the right (throttle) side cover. The timid might want to disconnect the negative battery terminal as a precaution at this time. Locate the tall narrow cover that says FUSE FUSIBLE and remove it. Unclip the main (the big one) harness holder located just up and to the left of that fuse cover. (It is stuck to the frame and is unclipped by sliding.) Pull the harness out a bit then pull back the semi-clear boot that covers all of the bullet wiring connectors and expose the wires. Locate the solid ORANGE and the solid BLUE wires.

Decide where you are going to mount your switch. I chose to mount mine on the right side of the third piece of the side cover set (the part where your seat lock key hole is mounted under the tank) which makes it close to what we are doing and easy to reach in emergencies. Cut two lengths of wire that will reach from the ORANGE and the BLUE wires to where your switch will be with some slack for routing around any obstructions. Strip and solder one each of these wires to one each of the center terminals on the switch, keeping them isolated. Using the blue plastic splice in connectors, hook one of these wires to the ORANGE wire and one to the BLUE wire we located earlier. Here you should connect to the heavier wires that have the FEMALE bullet connectors on the ends in case you ever need to remove your rear fender harness.

Remove the fuse from your in-line fuse holder. Take a lead of the in-line fuse holder and install a FEMALE quick disconnect on the end. Wrap it with tape to insulate it from weather. Loosen the upper screw on the main fuse (it's the one that the black battery cable is under). Strip the other lead of your in line fuse holder and wrap it around the screw then tighten the screw. Purists will probably want to replace this "wrap" method with a spade connector for this connection, but that makes the cover hard to re-install. Plug the new FEMALE connector of your fuse holder onto one of the male connectors of the flasher. Cut another length of wire that will reach from the flasher to your switch with slack for routing. Install a FEMALE quick disconnect onto one end of this wire and plug it onto the other male connector on the flasher. Solder the other end of this lead onto BOTH of the end terminals on your switch. It is important that you bridge these terminals so that both of them are making contact with the wire. Tape the flasher, switch and connectors to protect them from weather and shorting.

Install your fuse and flip your switch for the smoke test! It works? Good! Mount your switch, wire tie the flasher somewhere nice under the side cover and put your bike back together! You're done! Easy, HUH?

One caution: If you have the key turned on so that your running lights are on in conjunction with these flashing lights for an extended period of time, you may melt your signal housings since both filaments will be lit and hot. This takes more than an hour in my experience, so there is really little worry.


Alternative Method...
TIME: .5 hours

MATERIALS
16-18 gauge wire
1 any SPST switch (push button or toggle or kill)
2 splice-in wire connectors (blue plastic variety)
2 female quick disconnects (Radio Shack 64-3049)
1 Standard Duty Signal Flasher (Auto Zone 536/552-C)
1 in-line fuse holder with 15 amp fuse
2 - 3A diodes (Radio Shack 276-1144)
weather resistant electrical tape & heat shrink
TOOLS
Phillips screw driver
soldering iron
wire cutters
wire strippers

Using diodes. One must be cautioned that this method causes the both the diodes and the flasher to become very warm and they should not be mounted near any plastic parts or other wires. This works very well with that consideration taken into account and you can use any SPST switch to switch them, including the easy to reach Kill Switch as detailed on the Kill Switch Page. Pay attention to the orientation of the diodes in the drawing here. The light grey band is away from the flashers and toward the signal circuits. They let current pass from the flasher to the signal circuits but block current from the signal circuits back to the flasher and each to the other signal circuit thus keeping them isolated for regular use as independent signals.


Kriss "Hot Shot" or "One Shot" Modules
These modules employ diodes which allow current to pass only to the rear turn signals. When the brake is applied, only the rear signals light up in conjunction with the brake light. So that your four way mod will work with the Kriss unit in line, the Kriss unit must be in line between the rear signals and your four way switch. In other words, tracing the signal wires from your new four way switch toward the rear lamps, you should encounter the Kriss unit in the line. The Kriss unit should be the last thing in the lines before the rear signal lamps, as illustrated in the Kriss instructions.

NOTE: it is hard to find a DPST switch. The one listed is dual action. The center terminals supply current to one end of the switch in one position and the other end of the switch in the other position. When you are going to utilize only one switch position on a DPDT, you should not wire "HOT" to the center terminals, but wire "HOT" to the end terminals so that when the switch is "OFF" the other end terminals (non-used ones) remain "COLD." In this particular installation, since the flasher is "before" the switch in the circuit and the flasher is "off" when the you flip the switch to close the circuit, there is only a 5mA current flow at the switch terminals when you switch on your four ways so there is little danger of burning up the switch.


This mod may be performed on any modern motorcycle which employs the same circuitry: Find a hot wire and keep isolated the left and right signals. However, it is not guaranteed to work for your bike and it may or may not cause other problems. Only Honda's have been thoroughly tested with these instructions.
Questions? Contact Chet at Chet says 'Be sure to write!'Chetspages@rattlebars.com

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